[Japan trip 2025] Crabs all-you-can-eat in Ueno: Gozzo Ueno Hirokôji

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Date: 4th January 2025 (Saturday)
 
 
The original plan was to leave Yasukuni Jinja and head to Ochanomizu (御茶の水) to visit Tokyo's only Confucian temple, Yushima Seidô (湯島聖堂), and then pop by a railfan hotspot, the Hijiribashi (聖橋, literally 'Holy Bridge'), to take some photos. This spot is where three train lines intersect: JR Chûô-Sôbu Line, the Chûô Line (Rapid), and the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line. After that, I was planning to have a wander around Ueno, but...
 
After walk around Sensôji and Yasukuni Jinja, both Todd and I were already feeling pretty knackered! The itinerary was planned with the same pace as pre-pandemic trips, but after several years without travel, I deinitely felt 'older' this time and found myself getting tired much more easily than before! (Last year, I did go to Taiwan with my parents and visited Ilan (宜蘭) for a hot spring bath, but that trip was organised around my parents' pace, so I didn't really get to experience it properly.)
 
In the end, after leaving Yasukuni Jinja, I just hopped on the tube and headed straight back to the hotel to enjoy a hot spring bath and get a bit of laundry done, giving my legs a much-needed rest. It was only just after 5 pm, so most of the hotel guests were still out shopping, which meant the hot spring bath and washing machines were both free.
 
Ginza Wako (The chief store of Seiko watches)
 
After the bath, my legs felt much better, so I made my way to Ueno for dinner. Since I had planned to shop in Ueno that evening, I had also booked dinner there. I'd reserved an all-you-can-eat crab meal at Gozzo Ueno Hirokoji (ごっつお 上野広小路店). The name 'Gozzo' comes from a dialect in the San'in region (山陰地方) and is equivalent to the more common Japanese word 'gochisô' (御馳走), meaning a treat or feast. In Japan, after a meal, people often say 'Gochisôsama deshita' (御馳走様でした), which expresses thanks to the host or chef for the meal.
 
The nearest station to the hotel is Higashi-Ginza station, but since I was taking the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, I opted to walk an extra 5 minutes to Ginza station, as it's quicker than transferring. From Ginza, after 6 stops, I arrived at Ueno Hirokoji (上野広小路) station. A quick 3-minute walk from Exit A4 (which only has stairs; Exit A3 has an up-going escalator, but you have to cross a road) takes you to Gozzo.
 
Building entrance (Gozzo is located on 4/F)
 
Restaurant's decorations
 
The restaurant runs a buffet-style system where you serve yourself. Each table has a grill and hotpot for grilling fish or heating up the crab. The restaurant prides itself on serving fresh red snow crab straight from Sakaiminato (境港), a major fishing city in San'in region. The recommended way to eat crab is to start with the legs, which don't need to be heated, then mix the crab meat and roe into the shell and grill it as 'Kôrayaki' (甲羅焼き).
 
In addition to whole red snow crabs, the buffet includes a variety of other crab dishes, such as crab rice, crab noodle soup, Chawanmushi (茶碗蒸し, steamed egg), and crab shumai (焼売). The noodle stock is made from crab. There are also other options, including grilled chicken skewers, sashimi, sushi, takoyaki (octopus ball), and various grilled seafood, like fresh fish and turban shells.
 
Restaurant interior
 
A grill
 
Whole red snow crab
 
Other seafoods
 
Other dishes
 
Drinks are included in the price, and you have choice of alcoholic beverages such as red and white wine, sake (Japanese rice wines), beer, and spirits, as well as non-alcoholic options like soft drinks and tea.
 
The cost is JP¥10,900 per person, which includes both food and drinks. As far as I know, in the past, food and drinks were priced separately, with different rates for alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, but now they've bundled everything into one price. Considering the cost of living in Hong Kong and the UK, this is actually quite a good deal.
 
Kôrayaki
 
Hot pot
 
Ginza in the night
 
After dinner, I had a wander around Ueno Okachimachi before heading back to the hotel and enjoying another hot spring bath again...
 
 
Article menu for this trip:
 
Pre-arrival [Japan tour 2025] From Manchester to London ~ Hilton Garden Inn London Heathrow Terminals 2 & 3
[Japan tour 2025] From Heathrow to Haneda: flight JL42 & immigration in Japan
Day 1 [Japan tour 2025] The Railway Museum, the largest railway museum in Japan
[Japan tour 2025] Daiba: The Life-sized Unicorn Gundam Statue & Odaiba Marine Park
[Japan tour 2025] Dormy Inn PREMIUM Ginza: bargain accommodation
Day 2 [Japan tour 2025] Asakua: Sensôji, one of major Buddhist temples
[Japan tour 2025] Yasukuni Jinja, a shrine of martyrs and the place of taboo
[Japan tour 2025] Crabs all-you-can-eat in Ueno: Gozzo Ueno Hirokôji
Day 3 [Japan tour 2025] Toyosu Market: Daiwa Sushi, and visiting the Fruit and Vegetable Market
[Japan tour 2025] Atami: Izusan Shrine & Atami Castle
[Japan tour 2025] Tsukinoakari, a hidden hotspring accommodation
Day 4 [Japan tour 2025] Izu Highland: Mt Ômuro and the Steak House Kanai
[Japan tour 2025] Katasekan Hiina, a seaside hotspring inn in Izu Peninsula
Day 5 [Japan tour 2025] Ryôsenji temple in Shimoda, the first step to modernise Japan
[Japan tour 2025] Mishima Grand Shrine – say goodbye to Izu
[Japan tour 2025] Shuhoukaku Kogetsu: a hotspring inn in front of Mt Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi
Day 6 [Japan tour 2025] Worship observatory of Kawaguchi Asama Shrine – Torii gate in the sky
[Japan tour 2025] Fujiyoshida Retro high street; famous food in Kawaguchiko – Hôtô; and the second dinner in Shuhoukaku Kogetsu
Day 7 [Japan tour 2025] Fujinomiya: Shiraitonotaki 'White Silk Fall'; and Fujisan Hongu Sengen Main Shrine, the orginal shrine of Mt Fuji
[Japan tour 2025] Gotemba PREMIUM OUTLETS
[Japan tour 2025] Hotel Gracery Shinjuku: the Godzilla's hotel
Day 8 [Japan tour 2025] Kamakura: Tsurugaoka Hachimangû, Komachidôri high street, and the Kôtokuin (the Great Buddha statue)
[Japan tour 2025] Enoshima: please pay for the escalator
Day 9 [Japan tour 2025] Tokyo Tower; and Zôjôji, a Buddhist temple
[Japan tour 2025] Tsukiji Outer Market
[Japan tour 2025] Meiji Imperial Shrine, a Shrine for Emperor Meiji
Day 10 [Japan tour 2025] Narita Airport: see you, Japan!
 
 
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