| After dropping my luggage off at the hotel, I set off for my first
destination: The Railway Museum (鉄道博物館). As a self-described
'incompetent railfan', I always try to visit railway-related exhibitions
or take special transport journeys whenever I travel. Since Todd has no
interest in railways, I seized the opportunity to visit alone! The Railway
Museum isn't located within Tokyo, but in Saitama City (さいたま市), Saitama
Prefecture – about an hour's journey away. |
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Just above Higashi-Ginza station, there's a traditional
landmark – the Ginza Kabukiza (銀座歌舞伎座), which is currently the
only venue in Japan exclusively dedicated to Kabuki
performances, the traditional form of Japanese musical. However,
this prominent cultural site has a connection to a dark chapter
in Japan's history that the government would rather not
acknowledge. |
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After Japan's surrender in World War II, the country was quickly
occupied by the US forces. In response to fears of similar
treatment due to Japan's wartime sexual crimes in occupied
territories, the Home Ministry (内務省) instructed the Tokyo
Metropolitan Police (警視庁) to establish the 'Recreation and
Amusement Association' (特殊慰安施設協会, RAA) to provide sexual
services to the occupying forces. Most of the 'comfort women'
(慰安婦) were lured by deceptive advertisements. |
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At the time, Japan's economy was is ruins, factories were shut
down, and many women were unemployed. The RAA took advantage of
this situation and placed ads offering 'high-paying jobs with
room, board, and work in cabarets, cafes, and bars.' Some women
who responded to these ads were immediately taken away and
violated. The RAA operated out of the Kabukiza, a chapter of
history that remains unacknowledged by the theatre's website. |
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Keihin Tôhoku Line train (JR East
series E233-1000 ) |
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Limited Express 'Hitachi' train (JR
East series E657) |
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Ueno-Tokyo Line train (JR East
series E233-3000) |
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I took the Toei Subway Asakusa Line (都営地下鉄浅草線) at Higashi-Ginza station (東銀座駅) to
Shimbashi (新橋), where I changed to the JR Ueno-Tokyo Line (上野東京ライン)
train to Ômiya. While the subway and JR trains are familiar to most travellers, from Ômiya station, I
had to transfer to the NEW
SHUTTLE, which might qualify as one of those 'special transport'
experience I
mentioned earlier. The official name of the NEW SHUTTLE is Saitama New
Urban Transit Ina Line (埼玉新都市交通伊奈線). Its most notable feature is the
route it takes – primarily constructed using the elevated space beside
or under the tracks of Shinkansen (新幹線, high-speed rail service in
Japan). |
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When the Tôhoku Shinkansen (東北新幹線) and Jôetsu
Shinkansen (上越新幹線) were
built in the 1970s, their split point was set in Saitama,
dividing the area into three large regions. However, the benefits of
the Shinkansen were limited for Saitama residents, which caused
some local opposition. To ease public dissatisfaction, the former Japanese
National Railways (JNR, later succeeded by JR East) teamed up
with Saitama Prefecture and nearby municipalities to
establish Saitama New Urban Transit, utilising the existing
Shinkansen corridor to create a commuter-friendly transit line
for local residents. |
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As it's New Year's holiday season in Japan, when JR trains
arrive at Ômiya station (大宮駅), you'll often see many
families getting off, and most of them are heading to the
Railway Museum. |
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The walkway connecting Ômiya
station to both JR and the NEW SHUTTLE is called 'Tepakku
Dori' (てっぱく通り), named after the Railway Museum |
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Ômiya station (NEW SHUTTLE) |
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NEW SHUTTLE train (Saitama New
Urban Transit series 2000) |
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Tetsudô Hakubutsukan station (The
Railway Museum station) |
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The NEW SHUTTLE currently operates the Ina Line only, with no expansion
plans in sight. It uses a People Mover system, similar to the Taipei
Metro's Wenhu Line, the Metro Ligeiro de Macau (Macau Light Rapid
Transit, 澳門輕軌), or Tokyo's Yurikamome line (ゆりかもめ) at Odaiba. The trains are 6-carrage sets, each only 8 metres
long with a single pair of doors, making them small and cute – almost
like real-life versions of Tomy toy trains. |
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When the Tetsudô Hakubutsukan station (literally 'The
Railway Museum station') first opened, it was named 'Ônari
station' (大成駅) until 2007, when the museum opened, and the
station was renamed to include 'Ônari' as a secondary name in
Japanese. The station's concourse is seamlessly integrated with
the museum's entrance, with displays of steel wheels, bogies,
and the front of a D51 steam locomotive on display outside. |
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Yes, it does feel a bit like a
real-life version of a Tomy toy train, doesn't
it? |
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Locomotive Class D51 front |
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Floor tiles designed like Shinkansen timetables |
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The official nick name of the Railway Museum is 'Teppaku' (derived from the
abbreviation in Japanese), which was preceded by the Transport Museum
located at Kanda Manseibashi (神田万世橋) in Tokyo, which closed in 2006. The
Railway Museum was built and is operated by JR East. The
current site was once the train dismantling yard, but after being converted
into a museum, it retained tracks connected to the existing lines
for easy moving the displaying trains. |
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Tickets can be purchased from vending machines at
the main entrance. The machines accept cash, Suica card (a transport card
similar to the Oyster card in London), or
credit cards. Admission for adults on the day of purchase is
JP¥1,600, while advance tickets (purchased via the
museum's website, which in Japanese only, or at convenience
stores) cost JP¥1,500. Additionally, riding the park's Miniature
Driving Train or using some of the train simulators incurs extra
charges, which can be reserved at 7-Ticket kiosks at 7-Eleven or
entered into a raffle using 'The Railway Museum Raffle App' on
the day of your visit. |
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The museum is open every day from 10:00 to 17:00 (last admission at
16:30), and is closed on Tuesdays. If a Japanese national holiday falls
on a Tuesday, the museum remains open as usual. The museum's website
provides an
opening calendar (Japanese version only), which is useful when
planning a visit. |
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Once inside, the Rolling Stock Station (車両ステーション) is
located on the
right. This area features a rotating turntable with trains
ranging from
the 1910s steam locomotives to modern Shinkasen trains. |
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Rolling Stock Station entrance |
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A view of the Rolling Stock Station from the
2/F |
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The Locomotive No.1 is the most valuable exhibit in the
museum and one of the most significant in the history of Japanese
railways. It pulled not just a train, but the future of Japan's
railway development. The first Japanese railway, linking Shimbashi and Yokohama (横浜) (now part of the JR Tôkaidô Main
Line), opened in 1872, and this locomotive was Japan's first
steam engine, marking a significant step for the country towards
becoming a railway power. |
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In 1911, it was sold to the privately owned Shimabara
Railway (島原鉄道) in Nagasaki (長崎). In the 1920s, journalist AOKI Kaizô
(青木 槐三) spearheaded a movement to preserve Locomotive No.1,
and it was eventually redeemed in 1930 by the Ministry of
Railways (鉄道省, the predecessor to JNR) in exchange for a Class 600 locomotive. From 1936, it was
displayed at the Transport Museum in Manseibashi and was
designated an Important Cultural Property in 1997. In 2007, it
was moved to the Saitama location. |
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Another locomotive near No.1 is the Locomotive 'Benkei'
(辨慶号), which has the appearance of an American-style locomotive
from the Gold Rush era. Its number '2' and placement may lead
visitors to mistakenly assume it was Japan's second locomotive,
but it was actually the second steam locomotive bought for
Hokkaidô's first railway, the Horonai Railway (幌内鉄道) in 1880. |
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The coach linked with 'Benkei' is the 'Kaitakushi', originally purchased
to serve as a special train for the Hakkaidô Development Commission
(開拓使). 'Kaitakushi' is the Japanese name for that commission. While it
was never used for passenger services, it was intended for
high-ranking officials overseeing the development of Hakkaidô. |
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Steam locomotive Class D51 simulator, there are
still another simulators in the Job Station |
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Steam locomotive Class C51 |
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In 1893, just 20 years after introducing its first railway,
Japan succeeded in manufacturing its first domestic locomotive,
the Class C51, under British technical guidance. In 1902, using
the British-built A8 locomotive as a blueprint, Japan began
mass-producing the locomotives Class 230. By the dawn of the
20th century, rail transport had become a central pillar of the
Japan's economy. At the same time, World War I made it increasingly difficult to import railway
technology and equipment from Europe and America. As a result,
Japan had to rely on its own resources to continue developing its railway network. |
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manufactured locomotive, the Class C51. With a driving wheel
diameter of 1,750 mm, the C51 boasted the largest narrow-gauge
wheels in the world at the time, giving it superior traction,
speed, and stability compared to other locomotives of the that
era. From 1930 to 1934, the Tsubame (燕) super-express,
which ran between Tokyo and Nagoya, was powered by the C51,
setting a record speed of 120 km/h. Until the 1940s, the C51
remained Japan's primary locomotive, only being retired
officially in 1965. |
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Although the C51 was withdrawn from service in Japan, it
continued to operate in China until the 1990s. After Japan's
invasion of China in 1938, the Japanese Army requisitioned
sixteen C51 locomotives, which were modified to standard gauge
and transferred to the Central China Railway (華中鐵道) under the Japanese
puppet regime. These locomotives were reclassified as the Class PASHINA (パシナ型, derived from the Japanese pronunciation for
Pacific-7, PASHIFIKKU-NANA),
and they mainly operated trains between Nanking (南京) and
Shanghai. After the Chinese Communist Party took control, all
Japanese locomotives sent to Manchukuo (now Northeast China) and the
occupied territories were collectively referred to as Series Sheng-Li
(SL, literally 'Victory'), with the C51 being known as
the Class SL-9. |
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Steam locomotive Class C57 |
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A turnable, with a Class C57 on it |
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Oil-engine train Class Kiha 41300 ~ Originally
designed to be petrol-powered, it was later converted to diesel
propulsion. It was one of Japan's first mass-produced
oil-powered rail vehicle. |
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Electric locomotiveClass EF55 |
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Electric locomotive Class EF58 |
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Electric locomotive Class ED75 |
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Electric locomotive Class EF66 |
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Electric train Series 101, still seen in the
Kansai region around 2000 |
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Coach Series 20, overnight limited
express 'Nihonkai' (日本海) |
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Electric train Series 455, Hokuriku
Express 'Yunokuni' (ゆのくに) |
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Electric train Series 485,
overnight express 'Noto' (能登) |
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The locomotive Class C51 marked a significant step towards domestic production in Japan's railway system. 45 years
after the introduction of the C51, Japan presented the world
with a revolutionary
railway technology – the Shinkansen. |
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In 1950, the outbreak of the Korean War led to the US military
in South Korea requiring vast amounts of supplies. Japan, which
had industrialised before World War II, became
the ideal base for producing military goods for the
Americans. Factories that had closed after the WWII were
gradually reopened, shifting their client base from the Japanese
Army (pre-war) to the US military (at the time). This period,
known as the 'special demand boom' (特需景気), played a key role in
Japan's complete economic recovery. Economic growth resulted in the Tôkaidô
Main Line (東海道本線), which connects the three major cities of Tokyo, Nagoya,
and Osaka, nearing saturation. The construction of a new railway
line became an urgent necessity. |
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At the same time, Tokyo was awarded the 1964 Summer
Olympics. Whether for practical purposes or to showcase Japan's
strength, this development necessitated the construction of a
new mainline using cutting-edge technology. The goal was to reduce
the travel time between Tokyo and Osaka from eight hours to just
two. Under the leadership of JNR President SOGÔ Shinji (十河 信二),
work on the new line began in 1959. It was constructed using
standard gauge (1,435 mm) to improve the stability of the trains
at high speeds, which would become the Tôkaidô Shinkansen
(東海道新幹線). As a result, Sogô became known as the 'Father of the
Shinkansen'. |
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On 1st October 1964, the Tôkaidô Shinkansen was inaugurated,
in time for the Olympic Games opening on 10th October.
Initially, the trains were referred to simply as 'Shinkansen
electric trains', without a specific name or model number. It
wasn't until the second generation of trains, the Series 200,
arrived that the original trains were designated the Series 0.
The maximum design speed of these trains was 256 km/h, although
the operational speed was initially capped at 200 km/h, later
increasing to 220 km/h. With its distinctive aerodynamic nose, the
Series 0 became iconic, and its speed and sleek design
led to the Shinkansen being dubbed the 'bullet train' by the
outside world. |
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A dedicated Series 0 exhibition area,
offers a more detailed introduction to the history of the
Series 0. |
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Front of Shinkansen train Series 0 |
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Shinkansen train Series 200 |
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Dedicated exhibition for Series 0 |
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Series 0 train in the dedicated
exhibition hall |
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Located on the far right side of the Rolling Stock Station,
behind glass protection, several carriages on display are 'Goryôsha'
(御料車), the Imperial Carriages used by the Royal family. The
displayed coaches include No.1, 2, 7, 9, 10 and 12, making a
total of six. Among them, Imperial Carriage No.1 is designated as an
'Important Cultural Property' by the government. Historically,
there were 18 officially numbered Imperial Carriages (i.e. No.1 to No.18).
In reality, apart from these Royal coaches, the Emperor also
used other luxury coaches, so it was not always the Imperial
Carriages that
were responsible for transporting the Emperor. |
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Entering the 1930s, the Royal family often used two of Class
'Kuro 49' luxury coach, driven by Series 32 electric trains for
their travels. In the 1960s, the 'Kuro 157' luxury coaches,
powdered by the Series 157, began to be used, and the Imperial
Carriages
were rarely used thereafter. After the privatisation and
division of JNR in 1987, the Imperial Carriages were transferred to JR
East and were mainly stored at the Tokyo General Rolling Stock
Center (東京総合車両センター). In 2007, the Series E655 train was
introduced. The Series E655 is a unique train consisting of 5
coaches when used as a private charter, with an additional
'special coach' attached when the Royal family used it. |
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Before the introduction of the Series E655, special trains
for the Royal family were usually hauled by two dedicated Class
EF58 electric locomotive (Nos.60 and 61) working in multiple. |
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Electric locomotive Class EF58 (No.61), used to
power the Royal train, located in the lobby on 1/F (not in
the Rolling Stock Station) |
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After visiting the Rolling Stock Station, exit through the
rear of the Shinkansen Series 200 and arrive at the outdoor
area. Stepping outside, you'll immediately see an 'Ekibenya'
(駅弁屋, literally 'rail meal box store'), where you can purchase
JR's famous rail 'bento' (meal box). After buying your bento,
head over to the nearby dining area, the '183 Lunch
Train', which is housed in two modified Series 183 electric
trains. On the other side of the venue, you'll find the
Shinkansen Series E1 train on display. The Series E1 was the
world's first double-decker train designed for high-speed rail,
originally introduced to accommodate the increasing commuter
traffic on the Tôhoku Shinkansen. |
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Shinkansen train Series E1 |
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After passing through the outdoor area, enter the
1/F of the South Building, where you'll find the Job Station (事仕ステーション).
This section introduces various roles within the railway system,
such as train crew, station staff, logistics coordinators, train
design and maintenance, electrical engineering, power supply,
signalling systems, and more. In fact, the design of Japanese
museums often reflects this approach, which is both informative
and geared towards children. The aim is to foster an
interest in specific fields from a young age, guiding them
towards career paths. This is not unique to the Railway Museum;
many specialised museums in Japan are designed with this
educational intent in mind. |
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In Hong Kong, primary school essay topics often include 'My
Dream Career', and it's almost a given that students will write
about becoming a lawyer, doctor, boss, or accountant. Writing
about anything else is not only frowned upon by teachers but can
also lead to 'stronger guidance' from parents. In contrast,
Japanese children tend to have far more diverse aspirations. |
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Additionally, within the Job Station, there are two
Shinkansen trains on display: the Series 400 and the
still-operational Series E5. The Series E5 is currently the
mainstay of the Tôhoku Shinkansen, designed for speeds of up to
360 km/h, although its maximum speed is currently set at 320
km/h on the Utsunomiya to Morioka (盛岡) section. There's also a
Series 209 train conductor simulator (a conductor is not a train
driver but is primarily responsible for the opening and closing
of doors, public announcements, and other emergency tasks). As
mentioned upon entry, this requires a reservation or raffle via
the
app, with a fee of JP¥600 per session. |
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Exhibition in Job Station,
introduce about the different positions in railway
system |
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Shinkansen train Series 400 |
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Shinkansen train Series E5 |
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Series 209 conductor simulator |
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Stepping out of the Job Station, you enter another outdoor
area known as the 'Teppaku Playground' (てっぱくひろば). This is a true
children's play area, featuring a ride called the 'Mini Shinkansen Ride' (ミニはやぶさ号), which is a small train designed to
resemble the Shinkansen Series E5. Children can enjoy a short
ride around the track. However, the ride is
not operational during the winter months (December to February)
or in bad weather. Additionally, there is a slide and some 'rocking horse'
(though it's more accurate to say they're styled like a train
rather than actual horse). |
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Returning indoors to the South building, take the escalator
to the 2/F, where you are still within the Job Station area.
Here, you'll find several train driving simulators. The E5 simulator
requires a fee of JP¥600 per session, which can be booked in
advance or entered via a raffle through the app. Additionally, there are
four free simulators, including the classic Series 205 train and
the current Series E235 train on the Yamanote Line, the Series 211
on the Tôkaidô Main Line during 1980s-90s, and the current Series
E233 train on Keihin Tôhoku Line. No reservations are required
for these; visitors simply need to queue on first-come,
first-served basis. |
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Shinkansen Series E5 simulator |
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In addition to the Rolling Stock Station and Job Station,
the museum also features the Future Station (未宩ステーション), Science Station (科学ステーション), and History Station
(歴史ステーション), making a total of five 'Stations'. On the 2/F of the
Main building, there is a main restaurant called the Train
Restaurant NIPPON SHOKUDO (トレインレストラン日本食堂). On the 4/F of both
the Main and South buildings, there is a circular Panorama Deck and
a Train Terrace. |
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The old style ticket office |
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The Japan National Railways
nameplate |
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Railway Diorama in night scene |
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Returning to the 1/F, the outdoor space to the north is
called the 'Miniature Driving Train Park' (ミニ運転パーク). Here, there
is another Ekibenya, and the dining area is located in a
converted Series 455 train. As the main attraction of the
Miniature Driving Train Park, the
'Miniature Driving Train' (ミニ運転列車) allows
visitors to experience the joy of 'driving' a train. |
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Driving the mini train requires either a reservation or a
raffle via the app, with each ride costing JP¥600. There are
various train models, but visitors cannot choose which one to
drive; the train assigned is the one you get. The park includes
several simulated stations and signal lights, which must be
followed to start and stop the train. Of course, operating the
mini train is much simpler than driving a real one, and the
speed is very slow, making it particularly popular with
children. |
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At the northernmost part of the park, there is a Kids
Library, and on display are a Class DD13 diesel locomotive (DD13
形ディーゼル機関車) and a Series Kiha 11 diesel train (キハ 11 形気動車). |
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Diesel locomotive Class DD13 |
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Diesel train Class Kiha 11 |
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Of course, no museum experience is complete without a
souvenir shop, but today it was absolutely packed with
visitors. The shop was so crowded that it was almost
impossible to move, and it completely killed my shopping
mood. I had to squeeze my way out! After visiting the
Railway Museum, I had planned to head to a ramen shop
nearby, just a 5-minute walk away, called Ayagawa (綾川),
known for its 'Oyakitori noodle soup'. However, when I got
there, there was a long line, so I gave up. Hungry, I ended
up heading back to Tokyo... |
中文版請按此 Date: 7th January 2025 (Tuesday) After ch...
中文版請按此 Date: 2nd January 2025 (Thursday) Today marks the e...
中文版請按此 Date: 4th January 2025 (Saturday) ...
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