[Japan tour 2026] Tottori Sand Dunes ~ a 'desert' surrounded by greenery

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Date: 15th January 2026 (Wednesday)

Today is our last day staying in Tottori City (not Tottori Prefecture). After having breakfast at the hotel and enjoying one more hot spring bath, we checked out and set off for the day's itinerary. 　 Today's breakfast was actually very similar to yesterday's. The biggest difference was that the fried noodle dish was a difference type. Yesterday it was yakisoba (焼きそば, soy sauce fried ramen), while today it was the classic Japanese-Western fusion dish – spaghetti Napolitan (ナポリタン). But my favourite was still the coffee made with Daisen 'White Rose' milk. Even without sugar, it naturally had a slight sweetness. 　 ▲ My breakfast today 　 The first stop of the day is the Tottori Sand Dunes, followed by lunch at Karoichi (fish market), then a visit to the Kurayoshi Shirakabe Dozôgun (倉吉白壁土蔵群, Kurayoshi White Wall Warehouses) in the afternoon, and finally staying overnight at a hot spring ryokan in Misasa Onsen. Overall, it is quite a relaxed schedule and not too rushed. 　 The Tottori Sand Dunes are a rare large-scale desert landscape in Japan, and one of the most representative attractions in Tottori. Located in the northern part of Tottori City facing the Sea of Japan (日本海), it is the largest sand dunes area in Japan. It take about 15 minutes by car from Hotel Monarque Tottori (ホテルモナーク鳥取) to the sand dune car park. The car park is open 24 hours, and the fee is JP¥500 per entry for regular vehicles. 　 ▲ The sign of Tottori Sand Dunes 　 ▲ Tottori Sand Dunes Visitor Centre, with the Tottori Sand Dunes Park Service Centre behind it 　 There are two buildings within the car park. One is the Tottori Sand Dunes Visitor Centre (鳥取砂丘ビジターセンター), which provides tourist and educational information, including models and videos explaining the formation, landscape, and ecology of the dunes. It also provides walking routes and safety information, functioning as a small 'musuem'. The other building is the Tottori Sand Dunes Park Service Centre (鳥取砂丘パークサービスセンター), which serves as the management and administrative office. 　 Across the road from the car park is Tottori Sakyû Kaikan (鳥取砂丘会館), a complex with souvenir shops and restaurants. Next to it is the popular photo spot Takahama Café (タカハマカフェ), which we would visit shortly. 　 ▲ Tottori Sakyû Kaikan (souvenir shop and restaurant) 　 ▲ Takahama Café under the sunlight across the road 　 There is a staircase next to the visitor centre leading directly into the sand dunes. As soon as you step onto the sand, the first sign you see reads 'No writing or drawing on the sand'. There have been many incidents of writing or drawing on the dunes. Initially, enforcement relied on the Natural Parks Act under the rule of 'no advertising displays', but it was difficult to prove whether content counted as advertising. As violations continued, a local ordinance was introduced in 2009, and offenders can now be fined up to fifty thousand Japanese Yen. 　 Today, the dunes are an important tourism resource for Tottori, bringing in significant income. One might assume that local residents value this 'natural asset', but in the past, the dunes were actually a major nuisance. The sands in strong winds and typhoons would damage farmland and even bury houses. Before WWII, locals not only disliked the dunes, but even wanted to eliminate them and turn the land into something 'useful'. This led to the creation of afforestation for sand prevention and control (windbreak forests). 　 ▲ No writing and drawing on the sand dunes 　 ▲ Windbreak forest 　 Windbreak forests today are used to protect against blowing sand, but originally they were intended to eliminate and reclaim the dunes. Dr HARA Masaru (原 勝) of Tottori Higher Agricultural School (now Tottori University Faculty of Agriculture) proposed setting up a grid of bamboo fences on the dunes, planting black pine along with broadleaf plants such as silverberry as fertiliser trees. This successfully reduced the size of the dunes significantly. 　 During the period of rapid growth in the 1960s and 70s, with improved transport and wider access to information, large numbers of domestic visitors came to see Japan's largest sand landscape. This brought considerable economic benefits, and local residents gradually began to recognise the value of the dunes and learned to coexist with them. The windbreak forests were reduced in scale, leaving only the outer areas to prevent sand from spreading. The dunes gradually recovered their former extent. Around the year 2000, prolonged summer heat caused parts of the windbreak forest to wither, allowing sand to spread again. The current windbreak forest was re-established around 2019-2020. 　 ▲ Oigo Suribachi and Awasegatani Suribachi 　 The Tottori Sand Dunes are now designated as a Special Protection Zone within the San'in Kaigan National Park (also part of the UNESCO Global Geopark), designated as a Natural Monument in 1955, and selected as one of Japan's Top 100 Geological Sites in 2007. Together with Mount Daisen, it is one of the symbols of Tottori Prefecture. It is also counted among Japan's three major sand dunes, along with Fukiagehama (吹上浜) in Kagoshima and Hamaoka Sand Dunes (浜岡砂丘) in Shizuoka (or sometimes Shônai Sand Dunes (庄内砂丘) in Yamagata), though the others are much smaller in scale. 　 The formation of the dunes dates back around a hundred thousand years. Granite from the Chûgoku Mountains (中国山地) weathered into sand, was carried by the River Sendai (千代川) into the Sea of Japan, deposited along the coast, and then blown inland by prevailing winds, forming the dunes we see today. The Chûgoku Mountains divide the Chûgoku Region into San'in and Sanyô – 'San' meaning mountain, 'in' (陰) meaning sunless, and 'yô' (陽) meaning sunny. In the northern hemisphere, the southern side of mountains receives more sunlight and is known as 'Sanyô', while the northern side receives less and is known as 'San'in'. 　 ▲ Horseback Dune (the second ridge) 　 ▲ The faint 'Sand Curtains' on the Horseback, with the darker area below being an oasis 　 One of the most prominent feature is 'Horseback Dune' (馬の背), the second of three dune ridges. The first ridge is located at the north-western corner of the dunes, while the third ridge is the area where you stand after climbing up the steps from the visitor centre. Todd asked, 'Why doesn't this big pile of sand just get blown away?' It is actually a very good question, closely related to a phenomenon called 'Sand Curtains' (砂簾). At first, I though that the Horseback might originally have been a solid hill that was later covered by sand, but that is not actually the case. 　 Sand accumulates at this point simply because the wind is not strong enough to carry it further. Over time, sand builds up. When it becomes too heavy, it collapses down the slope, forming vertical streaks known as 'sand curtains'. The sand that falls down accumulates at the base, helping stabilise the ridge. This is why the Horseback can remain standing in the centre of the dunes. 　 ▲ The contrast between the sea and the dunes 　 Sand Curtains are not a fixed feature – sometimes they are very visible, and at other times they may not be visible at all. In fact, there are many similar non-fixed features within the Tottori Sand Dunes, such as Sand Pillars (砂柱) and Wind Ripples (風紋). 　 Of course, there are also fixed landforms like the Horseback, including exposed volcanic ash areas, suribachi, and oases. The exposed volcanic ash appears as a reddish-brown area, formed from volcanic desposits dating back approximately 50,000 to 100,000 years. Most of the volcanic ash visible within the dunes originates from Mount Daisen (大山), and dates back around 55,000 years. 　 Areas where sand accumulates are called ridges, while areas where sand is continuously blown away form what are knows as 'suribachi' (スリバチ), which can be described in English as 'bowl-shaped basins'. As sand continues to be carried away, certain areas are more prone to erosion due to the terrian. 　 At present, the more stables ones include Awasegatani Suribachi (合せヶ谷スリバチ) and Oigo Suribachi (追後スリバチ). Once a small depression forms, wind creates vortices within it. As erosion intensifies further, the depression deepens, and when it reaches the groundwater level, groundwater begins to seep out, forming an oasis (オアシス). 　 ▲ Looking back towards the car park from the dunes 　 ▲ Tottori Sakyû Kaikan 　 There has even been a 'mysterious' incident at the sand dunes. In June 2011, a local resident carrying out plant observation on the western side of the dunes discovered what appeared to be a human arm bone and reported it to the police. 　 Further excavation by the police uncovered four sets of human remains, all arranged in a straight line with their heads facing west. Forensic examination by the Faculty of Medicine at Tottori University determined that three individuals were aged between 30 and 40 (both male and female), while one was a male aged between 20 and 30. The estimated time of death was around the 19th century. 　 The possibility of a criminal case was ruled out, and both the police and researchers tended to believe that these were dead by shipwrecking, bodies that had washed ashore and were then buried together. Another theory suggests a connection to the cholera outbreak in Tottori in 1886. However, given the large number of deaths at the time, if it were related to the epidemic, there should have been far more than just four bodies. 　 This discovery illustrates how the sand dunes area a dynamic landscape – as sand accumulates and erodes, it can both bury things and bring long-hidden traces of human activity back into view. 　 ▲ Foot-washing facility outside the visitor centre 　 ▲ Tamahama Café 　 We did try walking on the dunes, but gave up after less than five minutes because it was genuinely exhausting. Each step sinks into the sand, making it even harder than climbing stairs, and your shoes quickly fill with sand. The visitor centre also offers free guided tours if you're interested. 　 Besides walking, there are activities such as camel rides, sandboarding, off-road cycling, and paragliding. There is also a chairlift (return JP¥500, one-way JP¥300) to the Sakyû Centre Observation Terrace (砂丘センター眺望テラス) and the Sand Museum (砂の美術館, JP¥800). However, the Sand Museum is closed during the first part of the year and only reopens on 24 April this year, so we skipped it and went to Takahama Café instead. 　 ▲ Inside the café 　 ▲ Café counter 　 ▲ My coffee milkshake and Todd's Americano 　 Takahama Café (タカハマカフェ) opened in 2022 and was designed by the renowned Japanese architect KUMA Kengo (隈 研吾). His works include the Japan National Stadium for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, V&A Dundee in the UK, Prostho Research Center in Kasugai (春日井市, Aichi Prefecture), FRAC Marseille in France, and others. The café combines architecture, a viewing platform, and a café space, and has become a popular spot near the dunes. 　 The building uses a mix of timber and concrete, with cedar sourced locally from Tottori. It has a three-level structure – ground floor for the counter, second floor for indoor seating, and rooftop as an outdoor viewing terrace. Natural light fills the space, blending the interior with the surrounding environment. I ordered a coffee milkshake, while Todd chose an Americano. 　 After resting at the café for a while, we did not head straight to our next stop – Karo Market. Since we still had some time, we decided to stop by AEON Mall Tottori Kita first...

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[日本旅遊 2026] 鳥取砂丘～綠洲中的沙漠

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日期：2026 年 1 月 17 日（星期六／土曜日）

今天是留在鳥取市（不是鳥取県）的最後一天，在飯店吃完早餐，再泡一下溫泉，然後便退房展開今天的旅程。 　 今天與昨天的早餐其實大同小異，最大分別就是炒麵類換了不同款式。昨天是醬油炒拉麵，今天則是日本的經典自創洋食──拿波里義大利麵（ナポリタン）。但正一最喜歡的就是用大山玫瑰牛奶沖調的咖啡，不加糖也會自帶一點鮮甜味。 　 ▲ 正一今天的早餐 　 今天的行程第一個目的地是鳥取砂丘，然後中午到賀露市場吃午餐，下午參觀倉吉白壁土蔵群，晚上在三朝温泉入住温泉旅館。基本上就是這樣，算是蠻輕鬆不太緊湊。 　 鳥取砂丘是日本罕見的大型沙漠地貌，也是鳥取最具代表性的景點之一。砂丘位於鳥取市北部，面向日本海，是日本規模最大的砂丘地帶。從剛退房的鳥取君王飯店（ホテルモナーク鳥取）開車前往鳥取砂丘駐車場大概需要 15 分鐘。停車場 24 小時開放，一般車輛每次收費 JP¥500。 　 ▲ 鳥取砂丘 　 ▲ 鳥取砂丘訪客中心，其後方為鳥取砂丘公園服務中心 　 在停車場內有兩座建築物，分別是鳥取砂丘訪客中心（鳥取砂丘ビジターセンター），為旅客提供觀光及教育資訊，包括展示模型及影片，介紹砂丘的形成、地貌、生態等，也會提供步行路線及注意事項等資訊，是一座小型的「博物館」。另一座為鳥取砂丘公園服務中心（鳥取砂丘パークサービスセンター）作為鳥取砂丘的管理後勤辦公地點。 　 與停車場一路之隔的，有紀念品商店及餐聽綜合服務施設的建築物──鳥取砂丘会館。在会館旁就是當地知名的新興打卡熱點──高濱咖啡店（タカハマカフェ），等一下我們也會到会館及咖啡店逛一下。 　 ▲ 鳥取砂丘会館（紀念品商店及餐廳） 　 ▲ 對面陽光下的高濱咖啡店 　 在訪客中心旁便有階梯進入砂丘範圍，踏上細砂上，首個看到的告示板是「禁止在砂上塗鴉」。鳥取砂丘曾出現多次砂上塗鴉事件，最初依據《自然公園法》中「禁止展示廣告」作檢控，但卻難以證明塗鴉內容是否屬廣告，加上違規行為仍然頻繁，於是在 2009 年實施《日本一之鳥取砂丘守育條例》，於鳥取砂丘上塗鴉會被處 5 萬日圓以下罰款。 　 現在的砂丘是鳥取重要的觀光資源，為鳥取增加旅遊收入，當地居民應該很珍惜這個「天然資源」吧？！與之相反，從前的砂丘為當地居民帶來諸多的不便，當砂丘遇上颱風或強風，附近的農田被破壞、住宅被掩埋，對居民帶來極大困擾。戰前的鳥取市民不但不喜愛砂丘，甚至想把它消滅，成為「有用」的耕地，因此便出現了──防砂林。 　 ▲ 不可在砂丘上塗鴉 　 ▲ 防砂林 　 防砂林不是用來防止風沙吹襲民居嗎？那是現在防砂林的作用，但當時設置防砂林的目的其實是為了消滅並開墾砂丘。當時鳥取高等農業学校（現鳥取大学農学部）的原勝博士（真的是姓「原」名「勝」）提倡以竹籬笆在砂丘上設置棋盤狀的「静砂垣」，垣中主要種植黑松，並混種牛奶子等闊葉植物作為肥料樹，成功把砂丘面積大大縮小。 　 直至 1960-70 年代，日本步入戰後高度經濟成長期，隨著資訊日益流通，交通漸趨便利，大量國民慕名前來鳥取一睹國內最大的地貌奇觀，帶來大量經濟收入。當地人慢慢意識到砂丘的價值，學習與砂丘共存，防砂林規模變小，只保留外圍作為防止風沙外溢，砂丘也漸漸回覆昔日規模。直至 2000 年，夏季高溫持續，防砂林出現枯死現象，風沙大量外溢，現時的防砂林約於 2019-2020 年間重設。 　 ▲ 追後擂缽、合谷擂缽 　 現時的鳥取砂丘已被劃為山陰海岸国立公園（聯合國教科文組織 山陰海岸世界地質公園）的特別保護區，1955 年被指定為国の天然記念物，2007 年獲評為日本の地質百選。鳥取砂丘與大山並列為鳥取県的象徵之一；同時與鹿児島県的吹上浜，以及静岡県的浜岡砂丘（另一說法為山形県的庄内砂丘）並列為日本三大砂丘，但其餘兩（三）者的規模遠不及鳥取砂丘。 　 鳥取砂丘的形成，最遠可追溯到約 10 萬年前。中国山地的花崗岩風化成沙後，經由千代川沖刷並流入日本海，之後於海岸堆積，而流入海中的沙則被潮浪帶回岸邊，在盛行風的作用下被吹往內陸，形成今天的砂丘。中国山地也就是把中国地方分割為山陰與山陽的分水嶺，由於北半球的太陽偏南，山的南面長期有日照而稱為山陽，而北面長期缺乏日照而稱為山陰。 　 ▲ 馬の背（第二丘列） 　 ▲ 馬の背上不太明顯的「砂簾」，丘列下深色的是綠洲 　 在鳥取砂丘最突出的地貌是馬の背，是整個砂丘裡三個丘列的第二個。第一丘列位於砂丘的西北角，而第三丘列就是在訪客中心登上階梯後所處的位置。大佬看到馬の背後問了一個問題：「這個大沙堆為何不會被風吹倒？」其實這是很有質素的問題，也與鳥取砂丘其中一個景觀──砂簾息息相關。正一最初以為馬の背可能原地形已是堅實的山丘，現在被沙覆蓋而已，但事實並非這樣。 　 沙於馬の背的位置堆積，簡單說就是「風力不夠」，盛行風一般的力量就只能把大量砂礫吹到這個位置，然後長年累月地堆積。風不斷把新的沙子帶到馬の背上，頂上的沙子累積到一定重量便會向後崩落，這些縱向的沙崩便形成一條條垂直向的紋路，這些紋路就稱為「砂簾」。滑落到下方的沙子會堆積成為支撐丘列的力量，這也就是馬の背可以穩固矗立在砂丘中央的原因。 　 ▲ 海與砂丘形成很大對比 　 砂簾不是固定的景觀，有時很明顯，有時可以完全看不到。其實鳥取砂丘裡還有許多類似的不固定景觀，好像砂柱、風紋。當然也有如馬の背一樣的固定地貌，包括火山灰露出地、擂缽及綠洲。火山灰露出地是一片紅褐色區域，由約 5-10 萬年前的火山沉積岩形成。砂丘中可見的火山灰大部分來自大山，距今約有 5.5 萬年歷史。 　 沙堆積的地方稱為丘列，而沙不斷被吹走的地方則形成「擂缽」（日文「スリバチ」，中文可稱為「碗形盆地」）。沙持續被帶走，某些區域因地形關係更容易被侵蝕。現時比較固定的有合谷擂缽（合せヶ谷スリバチ）及追後擂缽（追後スリバチ）。一旦出現小形凹地，風便會在凹地內產生渦流，當侵蝕進一步加強，凹地變深，達到地下水位時，便會有地下水滲出，形成綠洲（オアシス）。 　 ▲ 在砂丘上回看停車場 　 ▲ 砂丘会館 　 「有柯南的地方就會有命案」鳥取作為柯南發源地，砂丘也曾出現過「懸疑」事件。在 2011 年 6 月有當地居民在砂丘西側進行植物觀察時發現了一隻類似人類手臂的駭骨而報警。警方進一步挖掘後，發現了 4 具駭骨，全為頭部朝西，呈一直線的排列。最後由鳥取大学医学部進行鑑證，3 人為 30-40 歲（男女）、1 人為 20-30 歲男性，推斷死亡時間為江戸後期至明治初期（約 19 世紀）。 　 刑事案件的可能性被排除，警方及學者傾向認為是海灘死者，屍體被沖上岸後被人集中埋葬。另一推測則認為與 1886 年鳥取的霍亂大爆發有關，但由於當時死亡人數眾多，若與疫災相關，理應數目遠不只 4 具。駭骨發現事件說明了砂丘是一個動態地形，隨著沙的堆積、侵蝕，既可把事物吞沒，同時也能把埋藏已久的人類活動痕跡重現人前。 　 ▲ 訪客中心外的洗腳設施 　 ▲ 高濱咖啡店 　 我們有嘗試過在砂丘上行走，但大概走了不到 5 分鐘便放棄，因為真的走得蠻吃力！當雙腳踏在沙子上，你以為已經站的很穩，但當提起一隻腳踏一步時，踩在沙上的腳又會多陷一下，基本上整個腳掌已埋在沙堆裡，比爬階級更吃力！而且腳掌從沙裡拔出來時，鞋裡是盛滿滿沙子！除了自己閒逛外，訪客中心還會舉辦一些免費的導賞團，有興趣的話可以透過網站報名。 　 除了徒步遊覽砂丘外，在砂丘還可以參與一些沙上活動，好像騎駱駝、滑沙板、越野單車、滑翔傘等。另外還可以搭乘鳥取砂丘觀光吊椅（鳥取砂丘観光リフト，往回 JP¥500，單程 JP¥300）前往砂丘中心眺望台（砂丘センター眺望テラス）及砂の美術館（沙雕博物館，JP¥800）。但砂の美術館每年首季都會休館，今年將於 4 月 24 日才重開，我們也沒有前往那邊，而選擇去高濱咖啡店坐一下。 　 ▲ 咖啡店內部 　 ▲ 咖啡店櫃檯 　 ▲ 正一的咖啡奶昔及大佬的美式咖啡 　 高濱咖啡店（タカハマカフェ）於 2022 年開業，由日本知名建築師隈研吾設計，2020 東京奧運主場館──日本国立競技場、淺草文化觀光中心（浅草文化観光センター）、齒科研究中心（プロソリサーチセンター，愛知県春日井市）等建築同樣由隈研吾設計。把觀光景點、建築藝術作品、觀景台及咖啡室集於一身，目前已成為鳥取砂丘附近的知名打卡熱點。 　 咖啡店使用木材及混凝土混合結構，木材取自鳥取當地的杉木。外形為立體傾斜的四邊形，內部分為三層，一樓是櫃檯及少量座位，二樓是全室內座位，三樓（屋頂）是戶外觀景台。室內使用大量自然採光，令室內空間與室外氛圍、自然環境完全融合。除了飲料以外，這裡還有提供三明治、漢堡等輕食。正一選擇了咖啡奶昔，大佬則選擇了美式咖啡。 　 在咖啡店休息一陣後，我們沒有馬上前往一下站──賀露市場。因為還有時間，於是去 AEON MALL 鳥取北店逛一下……

文章目錄 前篇： [日本旅遊 2026] 鳥取砂丘コナン空港～以名偵探柯南為主題的機場 本篇： [日本旅遊 2026] 鳥取砂丘～綠洲中的沙漠 下篇： [日本旅遊 2026] 賀露市（かろいち）～鳥取・賀露港 鮮魚市場

歡迎追蹤正一的 Instagram：

[Japan tour 2026] Tottori Airport ~ a themed airport dedicated to the 'Detective Conan'

中文版請按此

Date: 16th January 2026 (Friday)

The next stop will be Tottori Airport... Are we leaving Tottori so soon? Of course not! Tottori Prefecture has two main airports – Tottori Airport in Tottori City, and Yonago Airport located on the border between Sakaiminato and Yonago cities. What is most special is that both airports have anime themes. The Tottori Airport we are at now is themed around 'Detective Conan' (名探偵コナン, or named 'Case Closed'), and even has an official nickname – Tottori Sand Dunes Conan Airport (鳥取砂丘コナン空港). 　 (This article will contain some references to the story background and characters of 'Detective Conan'. If you already know them, you may skip the parts marked in orange.) 　 'Detective Conan' is a very popular mystery comic and animation in Asia. It was renamed 'Case Closed' in North America. The primary reason was to avoid legal issues with other properties that used the name 'Conan', most notably 'Conan the Barbarian', which was already a well-established brand in the US. 　 It tells the story of a brilliant high school student, Jimmy Kudo (工藤 新一, originally KUDÔ Shin'ichi in Japanese), who often helps the police solve difficult cases. One day, while following some 'suspicious individuals', he is forced by the Black Organization (黒ずくめの組織) to take a mysterious poison called APTX-4869, intended to kill him. Jimmy does not die, but instead 'regresses' to the appearance of a primary school child. He later adopts the alias Conan Edogawa (江戸川 コナン) and continues investigating the background of the Black Organization, searching for an antidote to return to his high school body, while secretly assisting the police in solving cases... 　 ▲ Terminals of Tottori Airport 　 ▲ The 'Tottori Sand Dunes Conan Airport' sign in Japanese at the International Terminal main entrance 　 ▲ Conan illustrations can also be seen outside the terminal 　 ▲ A location map of Conan snap spots at the terminal entrance 　 The time we came to the airport for sightseeing, not to catch a flight! Tottori Aiport has a total of 900 parking spaces. The Car Park No.1 directly facing the terminals alone has 787 spaces, and it is free of charge – there is absolutely no need to worry about parking. If you are not driving, you can take the Airport Limousine Bus from Tottori Station, which cost JP¥480, but there are only five return services per day. Alternatively, you can take JR to Tottori Daigaku Mae station (鳥取大学前駅, literally 'Tottori University gateway') for JP¥190, followed by a 20-25 minute walk. A taxi from Tottori Station costs about JP¥3,000, while from Tottori Daigaku Mae Station it is around JP¥1,500. 　 At the terminal entrance there is a station map specially designed for Conan snap spots, so you do not have to wander around blindly inside the terminal, and Conan fans will not miss any of them. Tottori Airport has two terminal buildings – the Domestic Terminal (officially called the Passenger Terminal) and the International Terminal (formally named Tottori Airport International Meeting Hall, 鳥取空港国際会館). The two buildings are internally connected. Facing the terminal from the car park, the domestic side is on the left and the international side on the right. Most of the Conan snap spots are located within the international area. 　 ▲ Captain Conan and flight attendant Rachel 　 ▲ Conan introducing Tottori attractions 　 ▲ Conan illustration 　 It is actually quite normal that these are placed in the International Terminal – not because they are meant to attract overseas visitors, but because the International Terminal does not normally operate at all! At present, Tottori Airport only has five pairs of scheduled daily flights to and from Tokyo International Airport (Haneda). Apart from that... there is nothing else! This is also why there are only five daily bus services between the city and the airport – they are simply timed to match these flights. Since the terminal only occasionally handles unscheduled international charter flights, it is not even called a 'terminal', but rather an 'International Meeting Hall'. 　 The predecessor of Tottori Airport was the municipal Tottori Airfield, located about 500 metres south of the present airport. It opened in 1957 and closed in 1964. The current airport opened in 1967, established and operated by Tottori prefectural authority. International charter operations began in 1990. On 1st March 2015, in order to raise its profile, the airport adopted a nickname combining the nearby scenic attraction – the Tottori Sand Dunes – and the famous work 'Detective Conan' by Tottori-born comic artist AOYAMA Gôshô (青山 剛昌). As a result, the phrase '愛稱化 10 周年' (10th Anniversary of Nickname Adoption) can now be seen throughout the airport. 　 ▲ Dr Herschel Agasa's inventions 　 ▲ Voice-Changing Bowtie 　 Although I like mystery and detective stories, I am not a devoted 'Detective Conan' fan. I watch it occasionally, but not with great enthusiasm. By comparison, I prefer 'The Kindaichi Case Files' (金田一少年の事件簿), as well as the works of novelist HIGASHINO Keigo (東野 圭吾, most people would probably recognise the 'Galileo series'). 'Conan' contains more science-fiction elements, such as secret organisations and drugs, and gadgets, whereas 'Kindaichi' and Higashino's stories are closer to reality, relying purely on physical evidence and logical deduction to solve mysteries. 　 Speaking of Conan's gadgets, one cannot fail to mention Dr Herschel Agasa (阿笠博士, orginally AGASA Hiroshi in Japanese). He was the first person to learn Conan Edogawa's true identity, and has continuously assisted him by inventing and producing equipment – jus like Q in the James Bond films. At the airport there is also a corner displaying Agasa's inventions. Some are physical props, such as the Voice-Changing Bowtie, Turbo Engine Skateboard, and Power-Enhancing Kick Shoes. Others that are difficult to recreate physically are shown through illustrations. 　 ▲ Scene – Café Poirot, with 'waiter' Toru Amuro and customer Richard Moore 　 There are many Conan-themed scenes throughout the airport, including Café Poirot (喫茶ポアロ). After Jimmy becomes Conan, Dr Agasa arranges for him to stay with Jimmy's childhood friend (later girlfriend) Rachel Moore (毛利 蘭, originally MÔRI Ran in Japanese). Rachel's father is the private detective Richard Moore (毛利 小五郎, originally MÔRI Kogorô in Japanese). When solving cases, Conan often uses his Stun-Gun Wristwatch to knock Richard unconscious, then uses the Voice-Changing Bowtie to reveal the truth while pretending to be him. This indirectly brings Richard great fame, earning him the nickname 'Sleeping Moore' (眠りの小五郎). 　 Loccated beneath the Moore residence and Moore Detective Agency is Café Poirot, which Richard frequents. AMURO Tôru (安室 透) appears to be a café waiter and an aspiring private detective wishing to learn from Richard. In reality, he is an undercover agent of Public Security Police (公安警察, similar to investigators of MI5 in the UK). His real name is FURUYA Rei (降谷 零). He was dispatches by the Security Planning Division of the National Police Agency Security Bureau (警察庁警備局警備企画課) to infiltrate the Black Organization, eventually becoming a senior member under the codename 'Bourbon'. 　 ▲ Conan souvenir shop – Conan Detective Agency Skygate Shop 　 ▲ Photo sticker booth 　 ▲ A huge anamorphic illusion artwork – what you see from the designated viewing point 　 ▲ This is how it actually looks from above! 　 As a Conan-themed airport, it naturally has a Conan souvenir shop! Located in a corner on the ground floor beside the Café Poirot scene is the 'Conan Detective Agency Skygate Shop', which sells only Detective Conan merchandise. Outside he shop there is a photo sticker booth. Each session costs JP¥600 and includes a set of four-fame photo, one still image, and a short video clip. 　 In the International Meeting Hall atrium – the Conan Hall – there is a huge anamorphic illusion painting on the floor. This artwork is changed from time to time. The current one shows the Junior Detective League (少年探偵団, Conan and his primary school age best friends) together with Osaka's Harley Hartwell (服部 平次, originally HATTORI Heiji in Japanese) and TÔYAMA Kazuha (遠山 和葉), as well as three famous Tottori specialities – watermelon, pears, and snow crab – set against the backdrop of the Tottori Sand Dunes. Like Jimmy Kudo, Harley Hartwell is also a brilliant high school detective, known as 'Hartwell of the West, Kudo of the East' (西の服部 東の工藤). TOYAMA Kazuha is Harley's childhood friend (later girlfriend), making them essentially the Kansai version of Jimmy and Rachel. 　 ▲ Scarlet Territory – scene of AKAI Shûichi 　 Taking the escalator to the second floor, there is another scene in the far corner – Scarlet Territory, themed around AKAI Shûichi (赤井 秀一). Akai is an elite FBI sniper and a key figure in the 'Scarlet series', having infiltrated the Black Organization on behelf of the US. Although both he and Amuro are undercover agents investigating the Black Organization, they initially did not know each other's identities. This led Amuro to mistakenly believe that Akai had killed fellow Japanese undercover agent MOROFUSHI Hiromitsu (諸伏 景光), resulting in deep hostility. After Akai's identity was exposed, Amuro even attempted to hunt him down in order to gain the organisation's trust. 　 As Akai is a sniper, the theme of Scarlet Territory recreates a metal platform outside a red-brick building, dimly lit like a back alley – a typical high-level surveillance or assassination spot. Behind him is clearly a long sniper rifle case. 　 ▲ Multiple Conan illustrations on the wall 　 ▲ Conan's character wall 　 ▲ Including Jimmy's parents (top right) 　 On the second-floor of atrium there is a Conan's character wall listing all characters who have appeared in Detective Conan, including Jimmy's parents – Booker Kudo (工藤 優作, originally KUDÔ Yûsaku in Japanese) and Vivian Kudo (工藤 有希子, originally KUDÔ Yukiko). In the story, Booker is a world-famous mystery novelist. According to Conan, his father's reasoning and investigative ability surpass even his own. In his youth, he frequently helped Inspector Joseph Meguire (目暮 十三, originally MEGURE Jûzô) solve difficult cases, building strong connections with both the Japanese police and Interpol. 　 Vivian Kudo, who maiden name is Fujimine (藤峰), was once a globally popular film star. She retired at the age of 20 after marrying Booker. She is skilled in disguise, once taking the alias EDOGAWA Fumiyo (江戸川 文代) and continuing to play Conan's mother at his primary school. She and Booker had long resided in Los Angeles. During Jimmy's high school years he was effectively left to live alone in Japan, with Dr Agasa asked to look after him. However, following Jimmy's regression into a child, they returned to Japan. 　 ▲ Banner on the atrium 　 ▲ Children's play area at the airport 　 ▲ More Conan artwork, including one featuring Conan and Kaito Kid 　 ▲ Besides the Conan souvenir shop, there are of course regular local speciality shops 　 While sorting my photos, I realised I had missed photographing the statue of Kaitô Kid (怪盗キッド, literally 'Phantom Thief Kid'). It is somewhat hidden, located above a glass door at one of the entrances. The statue shows his iconic gliding descent from above, white cape fluttering, landing on one foot while surveying from a concealed height. Kaitô Kid's real name is KUROBA Kaito (黒羽 快斗), son of the original Kaitô Kid, KUROBA Toichi (黒羽 盗一). Apart from differences in personality and hairstyle, he hears an uncanny resemblance to Jimmy – even Rachel Moore struggles to tell them apart. When disguising himself as Jimmy, he does not need any make-up. 　 There is a reason for their similar appearance: Kaito's father Tôichi and Jimmy's father Booker are actually twin brothers. Due to their parents' divorce, Booker took his mother's surname. Although he is a 'phantom thief' who targets expensive artworks, his thefts are purely to demonstrate his abilities and expose security flaws. He never causes casualties, and most stolen items are returned or given to those in greater need. Thus he is known as the 'kind-hearted thief'. Kaito discovered Conan's true identity early on. The two are both rivals and allies – enemies on the surface, yet willing to help each other when necessary. 　 Besides the Conan snap spots, the airport also has normal facilities such as a children's play area, restaurants, and souvenir shops. It is truly impressive that an airport with such low usage can be transformed into a tourist attraction! 　 ▲ The recently popular 'miracle insoles' in Hong Kong 　 Today's itinerary finished earlier than expected. After visiting Tottori Airport, we could have returned to the hotel for a short rest. However, since we still had time, we decided to look for a pair of the recently popular 'miracle insoles' in Hong Kong (not a sponsored promotion!). When travelling, one naturally walks more than usual. Insoles that improve rebound support can only be beneficial. After checking the official website for physical retailers, we eventually found a shop called Shoes Island Tottori Yoshinari Store (シューズ愛ランド 鳥取吉成店). 　 These insoles are not much cheaper in Japan than in Hong Kong. The current price in Japan is JP¥2,640, while LOG-ON in Hong Kong sells them for HK$148 – less than HK$20 difference. Still, Todd and I each bought a pair because we could use them immediately. These half-length insoles were originally designed for flat feet, providing better arch support and reducing pressure. For ordinary users, they also enhance rebound under the foot, making walking feel easier. 　 ▲ The car park shared by tonight's yakiniku restaurant – Gyuoh 　 ▲ Yakiniku Gyuoh Tottori Main Branch 　 ▲ Tableware and sauces 　 ▲ 'Youth Cola' by INABA COLA – JP¥500 　 After buying the insoles, we returned to the hotel for a short rest. About an hour and a half later (18:30), we set off for dinner. Tonight's meal was yakiniku at Yakiniku Gyuoh Tottori Main Branch (焼肉牛王 鳥取本店). Since I had planned this trip four months in advance and then left it untouched, I had actually forgotten parts of it! Yesterday Todd asked me which day we were having yakiniku, and I replied, 'Are we having yakiniku?!' Only after checking the itinerary did I realise it was today. 　 It takes less than 15 minutes to walk from the hotel to the restaurant, but the shop provides parking (three spaces beside the building and another affiliated car park with eleven spaces). The spaces beside the shop are free. The affiliated car park normally costs JP¥100 per 50 minutes on weekdays, and JP¥100 per 90 minutes on weekends and public holidays. During lunch you receive a JP¥100 parking voucher, while at dinner the voucher amount corresponds to your dining time. In the end, we decided it was simpler just to drive. 　 Perhaps it was still early, as the restaurant was not very busy when we arrived. This is not an all-you-can-eat place – each plate is charged separately. We first ordered drinks. On the menu there was something called 'Youth Cola' (青春コーラ), which intrigued us, so we ordered it. It tastes nothing like ordinary cola! It is actually a mocktail made from honey, lemon juice, Tottori pear juice, and various spices, produced by local craft cola maker INABA COLA. 　 ▲ Tottori Wagyu – tongue tip and tongue root – JP¥2,000 　 ▲ Let's start eating! 　 ▲ Todd's favourite kimchi – JP¥500 　 ▲ Manyô beef rare cuts platter – sirloin, shoulder roll, premium lean, flank rib, and oyster blade – JP¥6,500 　 ▲ Daisen pork belly (JP¥900) and Daisen Vienna sausage (JP¥800) 　 ▲ Five-variety offal platter – heart, liver, aota, tongue tip, and tripe – JP¥3,500 　 ▲ Bibimbap – JP¥800 　 ▲ Egg soup – JP¥400 　 Many people have heard of the 'Top 3 Wagyu Beef' – Matsusaka beef from Mie Prefecture, Tajima beef from Hyôgo Prefecture (including Kobe beef and Sanda beef), and Ômi beef from Shiga Prefecture (or Yonezawa beef from Yamagata Prefecture). However, few have probably heard of Tottori beef. In ancient times, Tottori was already an important centre for cattle and horse breeding. What many may not realise is that the ancestor of modern Wagyu – the bull named Ketaka – actually originated from Tottori. Ketaka was bred at the Tottori Prefectural Livestock Research Center and won first prize at the inaugural National Wagyu Competency Exhibition in 1966 (held every five years). He later produced more than 9,000 offspring. 　 Even the three great Wagyu lines are descendants of Tottori cattle. Since their production areas are located near major domestic and international cities or transport hubs, they gained fame more easily. Tottori, being relatively remote, found it difficult to reach wider markets. Moreover, Tottori traditionally focused on breeding stud cattle and calves, which were then sold to farms in other regions – including the famous Wagyu areas – for further breeding and fattening. In recent years, Tottori has also begun raising beef cattle itself, with notable brands including Tottori Wagyu and Manyô Beef. 　 Both Tottori Wagyu and Manyô Beef share one common philosophy – they do not blindly pursue heavy marbling, but instead aim for a balance between fat and lean meat. Tottori Wagyu even uses the 'Oleic 55' standard, meaning the fat must contain at least 55% oleic acid, giving it a rich aroma without greasiness. Compared with Kobe beef, I personally find Manyô Beef has a stronger meaty flavour, sitting somewhere between Kobe beef and Korean Hanwoo (한우). After finishing the yakiniku dinner, it was of course time to return to the hotel to rest and pack our luggage. Tomorrow we would be leaving Tottori City...

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