| After checking out of Katasekan Hiina, the hot spring inn we
stayed at yesterday, we continued heading south. Normally, after
leaving Higashiizu town, many travellers stop off at Kawazu,
which is famous for its early-blooming Kawazuzakura (河津桜) cherry
blossoms. But since even the earliest cherry blossoms don't
bloom in early January, we decided to skip Kawazu this time and
head straight down to Shimoda. |
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Although we didn't plan to visit Kawazu itself, once we entered its area
via the Higashiizu Road (東伊豆道路), we passed a roadside
observatory and decided to stop briefly for the view. This
observatory is also a cherry blossom viewing point during sakura season.
Kawazuzakura usually bloom from early February to early March, and this
year's forecast predicts full bloom around late February – nearly a
month earlier than the Somei Yoshino variety (like the one used as the
reference tree at Yasukuni Jinja). Kawazuzakura are known for their
early and long-lasting bloom, and their petals are a deep pink colour. |
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In 1955, IIDA Katsumi (飯田 勝美),
a Kawazu local resident, discovered a cherry tree sapling blooming
unusually early along the riverbank. She brought it home to plant, and in
1974 it was officially named Kawazuzakura. The original tree in front of
the Iida house is now designated a Natural Monument by the town of Kawazu. Scientifically, this cherry variety is believed to be a natural
hybrid between Ôshimazakura (大島桜)
and Kanhizakura (寒緋桜).
You can find Kawazuzakura trees in other parts of Japan like Tokyo and
Kanagawa, but nowhere matches the scale of Kawazu itself. |
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Observatory near the border between the towns
of Higashiizu and Kawazu along the Higashiizu Road |
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It takes about 20 minutes to drive from Katase Onsen to Kawazu, and from
there to Shimoda takes another 30 minutes or so. We arrived in Shimoda
around 10:30 and parked at a small
private car park near the Monument for the Arrival of US Navy
Commodore Perry's Squadron (ペリー艦隊来航記念碑).
The cost was JP¥500 for the whole day – just drop your coins into
the box,
as it's unmanned. It seemed like not many Hongkongers visit Shimoda –
most of the tourists we saw were Japanese, coming in domestic tour
groups. |
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| Shimoda (下田) is often
mistakenly believed to be where the Treaty of Kanagawa was
signed. In fact, what was signed in Shimoda was an appendix to
that treaty, often referred to as the Japan-US Treaty of Shimoda. |
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Since the Tokugawa shogunate came to power, Japan had enforced a
policy of national isolation (sakoku, 鎖国),
allowing trade only with Dutch and Chinese merchants at Dejima (出島)
in Nagasaki. Meanwhile, after the Industrial Revolution, the
United States was actively expanding its overseas trade,
especially targeting China's vast market. At the time, whale oil
– not petroleum – was the main source of lighting fuel and
machinery lubricant. This made it essential for American whaling
and merchant ships to find refuelling ports across the Pacific,
and Japan was the ideal location. |
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Coastal view from the observatory |
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On 8th July 1853, US Navy Commodore Matthew Perry arrived at
Uraga (浦賀, now
Yokosuka city) with two steam warships and two large sailing
ships. The American vessels were coated in black anti-rust
tar, which led the Japanese to call them 'Kurofune' (黒船,
means 'Black Ships'). Perry, representing President Millard
Fillmore, presented a letter to the Tokugawa shogunate demanding
the opening of ports for trade and resupply, protection for
American sailors, and the establishment of diplomatic relations.
He also gifted telegraph machines, cameras, rifles, and more –
as both a gesture of goodwill and a show of power. |
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The Shogunate was frightened by America's superior naval force –
panic spread through Edo Castle (residence of the shôgun and the
headquarter of the Tokugawa shogunate). Senior official ABE
Masahiro (阿部 正弘)
claimed the shôgun, TOKUGAWA Ieyoshi (徳川
家慶), was seriously ill and asked for more time. Perry
agreed to return the following year and sailed his fleet around
Edo Bay (now Tokyo Bay) as a show of strength. Interestingly,
the Americans dealt only with the shogunate, unaware that the
Emperor and imperial court even existed. During the Muromachi
era (室町時代, roughly 14th to 16th century), the shogunate had once sent tribute to the Ming Empire in China and the
shôgun was conferred the title of 'King of Japan' by the Chinese Emperor – so the Americans
mistakenly thought the shôgun was the sovereign of Japan. |
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Coincidentally, Tokugawa Ieyoshi died just 10 days after Perry's
departure. Realising that Edo Bay had no defences and was
completely vulnerable, the shogunate quickly began building
Shinagawa batteries – as I briefly mentioned in my
post about Odaiba. Although they originally planned to build
11 forts, only six were completed by the time Perry returned on
13th February 1854. This time he brought nine ships. He had
planned to circle the bay again as a threat, but seeing the new
fortifications, he chose to dock at Yokohama (横浜)
directly. |
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the Monument for the Arrival of US Navy
Commodore Perry's Squadron |
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US-Japan Friendship Flame |
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Faced with such power, the shogunate had no choice but to agree.
A temporary reception hall was set up in Yokohama (the site is
now the
Yokohama Archives of History) to host talks. On 31st March
1854, both sides signed the Convention of Peace and Amity
between the United States and the Empire of Japan (日本国米利堅合衆国和親条約,
commonly known as the Treaty of Kanagawa). |
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The treaty opened Shimoda and Hakodate to American ships for
resupply and support, allowed the US to establish a consulate in
Japan, and formalised diplomatic relations. On 17th May, Perry's
fleet sailed to Shimoda. His troops were stationed at Ryôsenji (了仙寺)
and Gyokusenji (玉泉寺)
temples, and he continued talks with the shogunate's
representative, HAYASHI Fukusai (林
復斎), at Ryôsenji to work out the treaty details. They
also surveyed the area and held goodwill activities. Gyokusenji
later became the first US consulate in Japan. |
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After landing, Perry's men marched along the Hiraname River to
Ryôsenji – the route is now called Perry Road. It's one of
Shimoda's main sightseeing paths, blending Japanese and Western
architecture. The road still has its Edo-style stone paving,
white walls, willow trees, and stone bridges. Many old houses
nearby have been turned into cafés,
pottery shops, wagashi sweet shops, general stores, and inns. |
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Perry Road (Benten Bridge) |
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Perry Road (Ushima Bridge) |
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Perry Road (Yanagi Bridge) |
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Ryôsenji, formally Hôjunzan Ryôsenji (法順山
了仙寺), is a Nichiren Buddhist temple founded in 1632 by Shimoda's
second local magistrate, IMAMURA Denjirô (今村 伝四郎). |
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It's said that during the Summer Siege of Osaka (大坂夏の陣),
TOKUGAWA Ieyasu (徳川 家康)
suffered from an eye condition. At the advice of his retainers, he
prayed to Nichirô Shônin, the 11th head of Minobusan
Kuonji (身延山
久遠寺), who was revered as the 'God of Eyes'. After recovering,
Ieyasu pledged to build Ryôsenji once the Tokugawa regime was stable.
That's why the temple crest features the Tokugawa triple hollyhock –
showing its deep connection to the Tokugawa shogunate. |
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Normally, visitors walk along Perry Road directly to the temple gate.
But when I visited, the gate was under renovation, so I entered via the
main road beside a stone marker reading 'Land of National Opening' (開国之道場)
and 'Shimoda Ryôsenji' in Japanese. Just past the marker is MoBS – the Museum of
Black Ships. |
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MoBS was co-created by the city of Shimoda and Ryôsenji, and opened in
2016 after converting the temple's old treasure house. It displays
replica documents from the Treaties of Kanagawa and Shimoda, letters
between the shogunate and Americans, old illustrations, and more.
Admission is JP¥500. Even without entering, you can see some exhibits
and browse the gift shop, which sells souvenirs and temple charms. |
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Stone marker at Ryôsenji entrance (with
scaffolding visible on the gate) |
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Kaikokuden (front, taller building) and the
Main Hall (right, lower one) |
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| Just past MoBS and to the right is the temple's most
striking structure – Kaikokuden (開国殿).
Many mistake it for the main hall because it's so prominent, but
it was actually built to commemorate the signing of the Treaty
of Shimoda and serves as an exhibition hall. |
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| Around the corner stands a statue of Nichiren (日蓮),
founder of the Nichiren sect, called the Risshô Ankoku Statue (立正安国の像). 'Risshô
Ankoku' refers to Nichiren's political and religious vision
during the Kamakura period (鎌倉時代), laid out in his work 'Risshô
Ankoku-ron' (立正安国論). It means 'establishing the true teaching (the Lotus
Sutra) to bring peace and security to the nation'. |
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| Behind the main hall is the Ryôsenji Horizontal Tomb Site (了仙寺横穴遺跡) –
a rare example in Izu of horizontal cave-style graves from the
Asuka to Nara periods (around the 7th century). These tombs were
dug sideways into slopes or cliffs, unlike traditional vertical
burial mounds. Archaeologists found bones, iron tools, and
pottery, but due to their age, many items are not well
preserved. |
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After nearly a month of negotiations, Perry and the shogunate
signed the Treaty of Shimoda at temple's main hall – an annex to
the Treaty of Kanagawa. It laid out which areas of Shimoda and
Hakodate would be opened, what right American personnel had,
what resources Japan would supply, and how payments would be
handled. |
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Ryôsenji Horizontal Tomb Site |
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Historic drawing showing Perry's men training
at Ryôsenji |
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Unagi Kabayaki Yanagawa Ogawaya |
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I first learned about the 'Perry Expedition' in Form 3 history class
(equivalent to Year 9 in the UK). Our textbook described the Treaty of
Kanagawa as Japan's first 'unequal treaty'. But interestingly, this
interpretation seems to exist only in Chinese materials – there's no
equivalent view in Japanese or English sources. Although our textbook
was in English, it was published in Hong Kong, so the author was very
likely an ethnical Chinese. |
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To put it plainly, it's mainly ethnical Chinese scholars who frequently emphasise
the concept of 'unequal treaties'. The difference between how Chinese
people view the Opium War and the Treaty of Nanking, and how the
Japanese view the Perry Expedition and the Treaty of Kanagawa, clearly
shows the contrast between the two countries' historical perspectives.
Deep down, many Chinese people still hold on to a kind of 'Celestial
Empire' mindset – the belief that China should naturally be superior,
and that being outmatched by foreigners is something shameful. This
helps explain why the Ching Empire chose to go to war with Britain,
while the Tokugawa shogunate chose to negotiate with the US. |
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Traditionally, the 'Middle Kingdom' viewed itself as the centre of
civilisation, with foreign nations seen as barbarians who should learn
from it. Japan, by contrast, has always taken a position of looking
outward to learn – in the past, learning from Chinese culture, and now
that China is seen as lagging behind, shifting its focus to Western
civilisation. The Japanese don't view the Perry Expedition as a national
disgrace. On the contrary, they see it as the beginning of modernisation
and progress. Every year in May, Shimoda hosts the Kurofune Festival (黒船祭) to
celebrate the Perry Expedition. Japan doesn't hold resentment towards
the US (with the obvious exception of World War II). In fact,
America is seen as having played a key role in broadening Japan's
horizons. |
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Tonkatsu Ajidokoro Nishiki (photo source:
Google
Map) |
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After visiting Ryôsenji, it was time for lunch. While planning this
trip, I found a highly rated unagi (grilled eel) restaurant on
Tabelog called Unagi
Kabayaki Yanagawa
Ogawaya (うなぎ蒲焼柳川
小川家). Apparently, the owner once trained at the Michelin-starred
unagi restaurant Nodaiwa (野田岩)
in Tokyo before opening his own place in Shimoda. Sadly, the reviews
mentioned that booking by phone was almost always required. Still, we
decided to try our luck – but as expected, they were fully booked, so we
had to look for another place. |
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As we wandered around, we spotted a sign for 'tonkatsu' (とんかつ,
Japanese style schnitzel) at a corner facing Shimoda Port. I suddenly
realised we hadn't eaten tonkatsu at all on this trip – nor had I
planned to. So I walked up to check if there was a menu posted outside.
Before I could even get close, the owner slid open the old-fashioned
wooden door and warmly invited us in. I figured, why not? When it comes
to suburban area eateries in Japan, they rarely disappoint. |
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The restaurant was called Tonkatsu Ajidokoro Nishiki (とんかつ味処 錦),
a cosy little family-run spot, basically run by just the owner and his
wife. The owner doubled as the chef and was very friendly. The
restaurant had both counter seats and Japanese-style floor seating.
Without hesitation, we went for the counter – we're not really used to
sitting cross-legged. Once seated, the owner handed us menus in both
Japanese and English, so it was clear they often served overseas
visitors (later confirmed by the Google Map reviews – quite a few
foreign travellers had written about their great experience here). |
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Japanese-style table seating |
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Japanese-style table seating |
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My Special Tender Fillet Cutlet set meal (特製やわらかヒレカツ定食) |
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In the end, Todd ordered the basic Loin Cutlet set meal (ロースカツ定食,
JP¥2.200), and I went for the Special Tender Fillet Cutlet set (JP¥3,300).
We also each added a kinmedai croquette to our meal (JP¥400 as a set
item, JP¥440 à la carte), and ordered drinks. As we were the only
customers at the time, the owner served our drinks immediately and then
went back to the kitchen to start cooking. |
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The kitchen was right behind the counter, so although we couldn't see
what the owner was doing due to the height of the counter, we could hear
it all clearly – the crisp chopping of cabbage, the satisfying sizzle of
meat hitting hot oil – pure ASMR joy! Besides not having to sit
cross-legged, this is another reason counter seats are the best. |
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The set meals were generous and included a starter (bean sprout salad),
main dish (tonkatsu), pickles, rice, miso soup, and dessert. So, what's
the difference between the two cutlets? Beside being pork loin versus
fillet, there was also the 'special' treatment. According to the menu
notes, the 'special' version involved removing tendons and fat,
tenderising the meat with a mallet, and ageing it by freezing – they
claimed you could cut it with chopsticks alone. |
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Tonkatsu (the piece on top is the kinmedai
croquette) |
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A little paper doll folded by the owner's wife |
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Free dessert – vanilla ice cream |
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And yes, the pork was truly tender. It was crisp, rich with flavour, but
surprisingly not greasy at all – even the plate stayed clean, with no
oil pooling underneath. The owner's wife proudly explained that their
tonkatsu sauce, tartar sauce, and even the panko breadcrumbs were all
made in-house – not pre-made or store-bought. |
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Maybe that's why food in Hong Kong has become increasingly bland –
restaurants there cut costs by relying heavily on pre-made ingredients.
That's why so many shops end up tasting the same, lacking any
uniqueness. Even something as iconic as milk tea has shifted from each
café blending its own tea leaves to using ready-made tea packs, so every
cup ends up tasting identical. |
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When the owner's wife saw that we'd finished eating and were just
sipping our tea, she came over to show us some origami (paper folding
arts)! She taught us how to fold a chopstick rest in the shape of a
little boat using the paper chopstick sleeve. I've folded simple
triangle rests at dim sum or during East Asian cuisines before, but hers
had such a unique design. The most impressive part was how she folded a
dancing girl figure out of a paper napkin! She guided us step-by-step –
we managed the chopstick rest, but the paper doll was just too advanced
for us. No matter how many times we tried, we couldn't get it quite
right, and she kept smiling warmly while patiently demonstrating again.
In the end, she gave us one she had folded earlier to take home as a
little souvenir. |
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After the 'origami lesson', she brought us some ice cream and chatted
about other spots in Shimoda we could visit. Unfortunately, we had to
leave after lunch, so we couldn't check out the places she mentioned –
something to save for next time. If I ever come back to Shimoda, I'd
definitely return to this warm, welcoming little restaurant. |
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Street artwork on the pavement |
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Shimoda is a very special place. Even though it was the first
port Japan opened to the world, it never transformed into a
bustling international city like Yokohama. Instead, it remains a
quiet fishing town, famous for kinmedai, considered a
'top-grade' fish in Japan. Shimoda's geography probably held it
back – it's a narrow area surrounded by mountains and far from
Edo (now Tokyo). With the transport tech of the time, it just
wasn't suitable for major trade. So by 1858, only four years
after opening, in the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the
United States and the Empire of Japan, four new ports –
Yokohama, Kobe (神戸),
Nagasaki (長崎),
and Niigata (新潟)
– were opened, and Shimoda was closed. |
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Oddly enough, it was those same limitations that allowed Shimoda
to remain serene and unspoilt, preserving its sense of
authenticity and local warmth. Shimoda might not be a typical
tourist destination, but if you're the kind of traveller who
enjoys stories, you'll likely fall for it – not just because of
Shimoda's own past, but because here, you can hear the story of
how modern Japan began. |
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| Shimoda was the southernmost point of this journey. From
here, we would begin travelling north again, preparing to leave
the Izu Peninsula. |
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