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After browsing through Izu Kôgen's tourists' station and picking
up a few souvenirs, we continued heading south along the coast.
As we stepped outside, the rain hadn't eased up at all – in
fact, it had grown even heavier. |
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After about half an hour of driving down the coastal road, we arrived at
tonight's accommodation – Katase Onsen (片瀬温泉)
– around 16:00. The weather had worsened significantly during the drive:
not only was the rain pouring, but strong gusts of wind occasionally
swept through. Because we were driving a K-car, every gust caused the
vehicle to sway quite noticeably! It was slightly nerve-wracking. |
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The skies along the way (Photo by Todd) |
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The scenery had become entirely black and
white! |
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Katase Onsen is located on the eastern coast of the Izu
Peninsula, in the town of Higashiizu (東伊豆町) in Kamo District
(賀茂郡), facing the expansive Pacific Ocean. Tourism and hot
springs are the economic lifeblood of Higashiizu, with
approximately 80% of residents engaged in related industries.
Besides Katase Onsen, the town is also home to Ôkawa (大川),
Hokkawa (北川), Atagawa (熱川), Shirada (or Shirata, 白田), and
Inatori (稲取) onsens. Compared to these, Katase Onsen is
relatively young, having been developed in the early Shôwa
period, and is known for its tranquility and simplicity. Katase
is also famous for its local legends and is often referred to as
the 'Village of Folktales'. |
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Due to its close proximity to Shirata Onsen – separated only by
the Shirata River (白田川) – many people consider the two to be
part of the same hot spring district, commonly referred to as 'Katase-Shirata
Onsen'. The Izu Kyûkô (伊豆急行) railway line has a station here
named Katase-Shirata station. However, it's not served by the
limited express 'Odoriko' (踊り子) trains that run directly from
Tokyo, which makes it far less popular than Atagawa Onsen
further north. It is precisely this lower profile that has
allowed Katase Onsen to preserve its understated charm and
peaceful atmosphere. Compared to the bustle of Atagawa, Katase
is far more suited to travellers seeking rest and quiet. |
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Welcome drink (yuzu tea) |
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Private bath on the balcony |
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This time, we were staying at a ryokan called Katasekan Hiina (片瀬館
ひいな, which shown as 'Hiina Hotel' on Google Map), located on the northern seafront of Katase Onsen. By the time we
arrived, the rain was pouring. The parking area was right by the
roadside with no cover. Although the staff did hold an umbrella for us,
parking and retrieving luggage in such strong winds and heaving rain was
a bit of a disaster. It was raining too hard to take photos of the
exterior – that would have to wait until tomorrow. |
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The name 'Hiina' is derived from the Japanese word 'hina' (雛), which
originally refers to baby birds but in cultural terms is often
associated with children – Girls' Festival of Japan is called Hinamatsuri.
The name symbolises innocence, gentleness, and festive joy. The ryokan
uses 'Hiina' to express its commitment to heartfelt and thoughtful
hospitality. |
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Pouring rain and strong wind outside the
balcony |
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Another corner of the room |
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Upon entering, we had to change into the slippers provided at
the entrance. The staff also thoughtfully wiped the wheels of
our suitcases before bringing them inside. We were first taken
to the coffee shop in the lounge, where we were served a welcome
drink of yuzu and honey tea while the facilities were introduced
and check-in was handled. |
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View Room with Open-Air Bath (10 tatami mats, traditional
Japanese style). The room's balcony had a private ceramic bath
made from Shigaraki (信楽) ware – a renowned style of pottery
originating in Kôka city, Shiga Prefecture, and one of Japan's
six oldest kilns. You could have the hot spring bath while
enjoying view of the Pacific. |
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Japanese style water boiler-and-warmer provided
in-room |
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Room key and welcome snacks |
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Our room was on the 4/F, which also featured 6 private open-air baths
that guests could use free of charge – no reservation required, on a
first-come, first-served basis. Naturally, the ryokan also had separate
large open-air baths for gents and ladies. In addition, there was a free
family indoor bath that could accommodate 5~7 people at once, also
without the need to book in advance. Unfortunately, as it was pouring
with rain that day, I didn't get a chance to try out the other open-air
baths, and only used the one attached to our room. Although it's
referred to as an 'open-air bath', it's actually located on the balcony
and covered by a roof, so there was no worry about getting wet in the
rain. |
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Hiina has its own hot spring source with abundant water. The spring type
is a sodium-calcium chloride spring, and according to the ryokan's
description, the water is said to help with arteriosclerosis, fatigue,
rheumatism, and nerve pain. Even the showers use spring water. Local
guests can even take the spring water home by notifying the staff and
bring their own containers – a lovely way to extend the experience
beyond your stay. |
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Dinner starters and cold dishes already
prepared. |
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| Dinner was scheduled for 18:30. With a couple of hours to
spare after unpacking, it was time for another dip in the hot
spring. Afterwards, I enjoyed the welcome snacks and some tea in
the room. The snack provided was a local Izu delicacy – Sakura
shrimp crackers, which I had also bought earlier at the
tourists' station. |
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| There are two dining venues within the ryokan: Hatôtei (波濤亭)
on the 4/F, which offers private rooms for guests staying in
rooms with open-air baths, and Yûmichaya (遊味茶屋) on the 3/F, for
guests in standard rooms. |
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| Tonight's dinner was truly extravagant – featuring lobster,
kinmedai (金目鯛, golden-eyed snapper), abalone, and Wagyu steak,
alongside numerous beautifully presented dishes. |
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My extra order of lemonade (Japanese call
lemonade as 'cider', and apple cider as 'cidre'
(in French)) |
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Starter 1: Lightly seared Pacific saury, obaku
tofu, persimmon vinegar, myoga (Japanese ginger), and daikon
radish |
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Starter 2: Chicken, aubergine, potato, tomato
sauce, shishito pepper (Japanese green chili pepper), and
maitake mushrooms |
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Starter 3: Apple vinegar |
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Starter 3: Grapes, fruit snow (similar to
sorbet), and carrot mousse |
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Entree: Crab tamago roll, cucumber, and egg yolk vinegar; sea
urchin tofu, wasabi stem, and goji berry; and pickled mushrooms,
chrysanthemum petals, mizuna, shiitake mushroom, kochia fruit |
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Sashimi: Locally sourced fresh fishes |
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Salad: Cheese, salmon, prosciutto, seaweed, Spanish mackerel
(鰆), sweet potato, cherry tomatoes, etc |
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Main dish: Whole kinmedai simmered in sauce
with ginger |
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Grilled dish 1: Grilled creamy pumpkin |
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Grilled dish 2: Grilled live abalone |
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Grilled dish 3: Wagyu steak |
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Vegetables for the steak and rock salt from
Pakistan |
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Dessert: Hôjicha ice cream |
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In addition to all of the above, there was also a bowl of rice made from
Hitomebore – a variety grown in Yamagata Prefecture – and two types of
pickles, though I realised afterwards that I hadn't photographed them
(not that a bowl of rice and pickles would've made much of a photo!). 'Hitomebore'
means 'love at first sight' in Japanese, and the rice earned its name
for its exquisite taste and texture. Soft, chewy, and flavourful, it
stays delicious even after it's cooled. |
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While we were enjoying dinner, staff had already come to the room to lay
out the futons. Around 20:00, we returned to the room. It was too early
to sleep, so of course I had another hot spring bath. There wasn't much
to see in the dark and rain, but under the light, I could watch the
raindrops falling. The sea, pitch black beyond the balcony, had
white-capped waves breaking on the shore. The only sound was the booming
crash of waves against the embankment – an unforgettable onsen
experience. |
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The view from the balcony before sunrise |
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I naturally woke up around 06:00, still not quite adjusted to
the time difference. Opening the balcony doors, I was greeted by
a completely different scene. The sun had not yet risen, but the
skies were blue with fluffy white clouds. The sea had calmed,
and the roaring waves had quieted into a gentle rustle. A quick
check of the weather forecast suggested the worst was behind us
– and there was time to enjoy the sunrise. |
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| Today's breakfast was at 08:00, so I still had plenty of
time for another bath before heading down to the same restaurant
as the night before, Hatôtei. |
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Salad and squid sashimi |
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Rice, pickles, and onsen tamago (slow-cooked
boil egg) with aubergine |
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The coffee shop in the lounge – where we were
welcomed yesterday |
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Breakfast included an assortment of small dishes, a salad, soup,
rice, dessert, and more. As there was no menu provided and the
staff didn't introduce each item, I couldn't identify everything
on the table! To be honest, the breakfast at Tsukinoakari
yesterday was more elaborate – though dinner here at Hiina was
undoubtedly the better of the two. The biggest surprise at
breakfast was the lobster miso soup. I'd noticed the staff
clearing away the lobster shell and head after dinner last night
and thought it a bit of a shame – little did I know they would
be used to make such a delicious sou. That was a truly
delightful touch! |
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Yesterday, we had hurriedly entered the ryokan and headed
straight to the room. After breakfast and another quick bath, I
took the time to explore the ryokan's surroundings... |
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Hina no Kura – after check-in, women and children can choose
their yukata here; men's yukata are provided directly in the
room. |
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The coast opposite the ryokan |
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Clear skies and sunshine |
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Street outside the ryokan |
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Katasekan Hiina's main entrance and exterior |
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After exploring the ryokan's nooks and crannies, we returned to the room
to pack. Checkout was done at the front desk in the lounge, where staff
helped bring our luggage to the car. After leaving Katase Onsen, we
headed towards Shimoda... |
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Katase Onsen, as a 'village of folktales',
should have had many legends, but I only managed to find two online: the
'Haritsuke no Matsu' and the 'Shiranuta
Pond'. |
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| There is a pine tree along the coast of Katase known as
Kaibô no Matsu (海防の松,
Coastal Defence Pine), though it is more commonly referred to as
the Haritsuke no Matsu (はりつけの松, the pine of crucifixion). In
1793, with the threat to Japan's coastal security becoming
increasingly severe, the Tokugawa shogunate ordered local
domains to strengthen their maritime defences. At the time,
MATSUDAIRA Sadanobu (松平 定信), a rôjû (老中, a position of senior
official), personally toured the Izu coastline. One 14 March, he
led a party of roughly 200 people across the Amagi mountains
(天城山) and stayed overnight in Katase. Following his inspection,
Matsudaira issued an order for pine trees to be planted in large
numbers along the Izu and Sagami coasts, both to prevent enemy
ships from spying on local settlements and to serve as a
protective measure against seaborne attacks. |
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Historical records state that the transplanted pine trees were already
around 40 years old and well developed. The tree that still stands today
is estimated to be around 250 years old and serves as a living testament
to Japan's historical coastal defence strategy. During the early Meiji
period, hundreds of pine trees lined the shoreline between Katase and
Shirata, but now only a few remain. Among them, one tree has come to be
known as the Haritsuke no Matsu due to a local legend: a pair of young
lovers, torn apart by their families over differences in social status,
are said to have set fire to a nearby temple in protest. They were
ultimately sentenced to death by crucifixion, and according to the tale,
the execution took place beside this very pine tree. |
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The other tale concerns Shiranuta Pond (不知沼池/シラヌタの池), located in the
Amagi mountains behind Katase – a secluded, mystical pool surrounded by
forest. It's nicknamed the 'phantom pond' due to its hidden location and
serene natural beauty, and it's recognised as a geological feature
within the Izu Peninsula Geopark. |
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Legend has it that a dragon dwells in Shiranuta Pond, and its
surroundings are covered with amacha trees, which dragons are said to
love. Coincidentally, there's also a temple in Katase called Ryûen'in
(龍淵院) – literally 'dragon abyss temple' – which is also surrounded by
amacha trees. Since there are no written records of its origin, locals
believe that Katase was once the home of a dragon. |
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