[Japan tour 2026] Wakasa Station ~ a real-life 'railway museum'; Takumi Kappô ~ famous local dishes in Tottori

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Date: 16th January 2026 (Friday)

This morning's first sightseeing destination was the Wakasa Railway (若桜鉄道). The original plan was to catch the 09:47 through service from Tottori station, arrive at Wakasa (若桜) station at 10:37, head back to Tottori for local cuisine at lunchtime, and then pick up the hire car to begin our self-drive journey. However, as we had done the laundry rather late the night before, we got up later than planned. After breakfast, a glance at the time made it clear we had already missed the original train. Since there was no way we were going to make it, I decided to have another hot spring bath first and then calmly think of an alternative. 　 Option 1: take a later train. Looking at the Wakasa Railway timetable, the next service was not a through train. We would first have to take the JR Inbi Line from Tottori station to Kôge (郡家) station, then change to the Wakasa Railway to Wakasa, arriving at 11:52. The real problem, however, was not the later arrival time – it was the return journey. The earliest train back from Wakasa was at 13:24, reaching Tottori at 14:20. That would mean missing the local cuisine Todd did not want to miss, as it would already be closed for its afternoon break. 　 Option 2: skip Wakasa and wander nearby. But then I would be the one missing out on the Wakasa Railway. Option 3: collect the car earlier. In the end we chose this option – pick up the hire car ahead of schedule. It depended on whether the rental office could entertain us, but as they often deal with walk-in customers, it should not have been an issue. When planning the trip, I compared prices on Jalan and booked Nippon Rent-A-Car. The pick-up point was their Tottori Station branch, located just below the station, in the car park behind Dream Clock 21. 　 ▲ Morning streets in Tottori – somehow the snow piles seem even higher! 　 ▲ Dream Clock 21 – last night it was against the dark sky, today we see it properly in daylight 　 ▲ Tottori station 　 The Nippon Rent-A-Car Tottori Station branch also handles JR Rent-A-Car businesses. JR Rent-A-Car is JR's own rental car service, mainly aimed at long-distance rail travellers who want to drive at their destination. Some branches are run directly by JR, while others are operated by partner companies. Besides Nippon Rent-A-Car, partners include Times Car Rental and Toyota Rent-A-Car. 　 As soon as we arrived, the staff sorted everything out for us. Seeing that we would be returning the car in Izumo (出雲), they told us heavy snow was forecast there from the 20th onwards and 'recommended' fitting winter tyres. The additional cost for winter tyres and the earlier pick-up came to JP¥22,220. Added to the original JP¥70,180, the total rental cost was JP¥92,400. If you are driving in snow, winter tyres are not something you can skimp on – it is a serious safety issue. 　 We had booked the 'S-S' category (Standard Compact). I had actually wanted to hire a k-car again like last year, but one-way rentals were not available for k-cars here. This time we were given a Toyota Yaris – a very common model in the UK, though usually older 2nd- or 3rd-generation versions. In Japan, rental cars tend to be newer models. Our was a 2024 4th-generation facelift hybrid. For that price, getting a hybrid felt like good value. 　 ▲ Nippon Rent-A-Car Tottori Station branch (JR Rent-A-Car partner branch) 　 ▲ Our companion for the coming week – Toyota Yaris 　 ▲ Even thicker snow on the Wakasa side 　 After collecting the car, we drove to the 7-Eleven next to our hotel – one with parking – and set up the satnav before setting off properly. In Japan, it is common for rental companies and onsen ryokan (hot spring inns) to see guests off outside. Staff will usually stand there until your car disappears from sight, so driving off promptly is almost a courtesy. Since we had not originally planned to drive to Wakasa, I had not looked up its Mapcode in advance and had to search for it online on the spot. 　 The drive from Tottori to Wakasa takes about an hour – slightly slower than taking the Wakasa Railway. The road and the railway largely run parallel. The railway's top speed is 65 km/h, which is faster than the legal road speed of 50 km/h, and of course trains do not have traffic lights. Driving, however, is not tied to a timetable and offers more flexibility. The downside is that I missed the experience of riding their train. As we drove, the snow along the roadside became thicker and thicker. Wakasa is in a mountainous area, so that was hardly surprising. We arrived at around 11:30. 　 ▲ Wakasa Station main building 　 ▲ Wakasa Station ticket window 　 ▲ Entrance to the platform 　 The Wakasa Railway (Wakasa Line) was originally the Japanese National Railways Wakasa Line. It was mainly used for timber transport, while also carrying passengers – somewhat similar to Taiwan Railway's Neiwan Line (台鐵內灣線). 　 The history of the Wakasa Railway can be traced back to around 1889, when a San'in trunk line was being planned. One proposed route ran via Maizuru (舞鶴), Miyazu (宮津), Izushi (出石), Wakasa and Tottori, but the present San'in Main Line alignment was ultimately chosen. In 1922, the revised Railway Construction Act specified the construction f a line from Kôge to Wakasa and on to Yôka (八鹿), crossing the mountains. 　 The first section (Kôge to Hayabusa) was completed in January 1930, and the second section (Hayabusa to Wakasa) opened in December the same year. The total length was 19.2 km, with construction costs of over JP¥1.3 million. The Wakasa to Yôka section was never built, leaving Wakasa station as the terminus. 　 ▲ Snow-covered tracks and snow-melt channel 　 ▲ Wakasa station sign 　 ▲ Station platform 　 As the timber industry declined, freight services ceased entirely in 1974. With depopulation in the mountains, the railway's transport role gradually weakened. In 1981, under the JNR Reconstruction Act, it was designated as a line to be abolished in the first phase. In 1986. it was decided that a third-sector railway would take over. Following JNR's privatisation in April 1987, it briefly became part of JR West before being officially transferred to the Wakasa Railway in October that year. 　 Originally classified as a Type I railway business operator, Wakasa Railway transferred track ownership in 2009 to the local authorities of towns of Wakasa and Yazu (八頭). The two towns authorities became legal Tyep II railway business operators, while Wakasa Railway became a Type III railway business operator. The Wakasa Line runs from Kôge station on the JR Inbi Line to Wakasa station, 19.2 km in total, with nine stations. When Todd saw 'Kôge' on the timetable, he immediately said, 'Didn't we pass that yesterday?' Indeed, the limited express Super Hakuto runs along the Inbi Line and stops at Kôge station. 　 Types of Railway Businesses in Japan 　 Type I railway business operators: the main model in Japan, owning both infrastructure and train operations. By Japanese classification, the London Underground would fall into this category. 　 Type II railway business operators: owns the infrastructure but leases it to Type I or Type II operators. In this sense, Network Rail in the UK would be similar. 　 Type III railway business operators: does not own infrastructure but operates trains on tracks owned by Type I or Type II operators. UK National Rail train operating companies such as Northern Trains or Virgin Trains would fit this category. Note that a Type III railway business operator is not the same concept as a third-sector railway. 　 ▲ Wakasa station entry ticket 　 ▲ Reverse side with information about the C12 steam locomotive 　 ▲ Snow-covered tracks – truly beautiful 　 Wakasa station is the easternmost terminal station in Tottori Prefecture and the wider Chûgoku region. The station main building is a single-storey wooden structure with a trussed roof above the eaves. Although renovated externally in 1995, it retains it orginal appearance. On 16th January 2020, it officially became a sister station of Neiwan Station (內灣站) on Taiwan's Neiwan Line. 　 The building is divided into three sections: ticket office, waiting room and office area. Entering through the main door, you first reach the ticket office, with the waiting room to the right. Behind the ticket window is the office, which also serves as the headquarters of the Wakasa Railway – and the only staffed station on the line. The interior was renovated in 2020, adding Wakasa Cafe 'retro' (わかさカフェ『retro』), with the waiting room now serving as the cafe's seating area. Even so, the place still feels very much like early Shôwa Japan. 　 Several structures within the station grounds are designated National Registered Tangible Cultural Properties, including the station main building and platform, storage and lighting shed, former western signal hut, former eastern signal hut, maintenance vehicles' shed, locomotive turntable, water tower, and snow-melt channel. To enter the operational yard area, visitors must but a platform entry ticket at the ticket office. Although no one checks it, a sign at the ramp leading onto the tracks reminds visitors to purchase one. The ticket cost JP¥300 and is printed on a retro cardboard stock – quite nice to keep as a bookmark. 　 ▲ Former eastern signal hut and JNR Series 12 coach in the distance 　 ▲ Locomotive turntable 　 ▲ JNR Class C12 steam locomotive No. 167 and water tower 　 ▲ JNR Class DD16 diesel locomotive 　 Between the tracks runs a channel that is not a rain gutter but a snow-melt channel, about 278 metres long. Snow on the tracks is melted by flowing water and carried away through this channel. Another snow-melting facility is the turntable on the siding, used to change the direction of locomotives. Unlike the motorised demonstrations seen in many museums, this one is manually operated. Turning a locomotive weighing dozens of tonnes must be exhausting. The base of the turntable is shaped like a mortar and channels water through it to prevent freezing. 　 The station has two operationally preserved locomotives: a JNR Class C12 steam locomotive and a Class DD16 diesel locomotive. C12 No. 167 was built by Nippon Sharyô Nagoya factory in 1937 and mainly served in western Japan. It was withdrawn in 1974 and preserved in Kami Town Kôminkan (加美町公民館) of Hyôgo Prefecture before being transferred to the Wakasa Railway in 2008. The Class DD16 diesel locomotive was originally developed to replace steam locomotive like the C12. The No. 7 unit here was formerly owned by the Railway Technical Research Institute and transferred to the Wakasa Railway in 2012. 　 After being acquired by the Wakasa Railway, C12 No. 167 was converted from coal-fired steam to compressed air operation. As it is officially withdrawn, it cannot carry passengers, but it can run within the line's block section for demonstration purposes. Experience driving sessions are held on the third Saturday and forth Sunday every month between April and October. And a SL Riding Experience event will hold on selected dates. 　 ▲ Visitor writing messages in stones and placing them on the railway sleepers 　 ▲ Vehicles' shed 　 ▲ Series 12 coaches – not accessible to visitors 　 Besides the two locomotives, the Wakasa Railway also retains a JNR Class Yo-8000 brake van, open freight wagons, and three JNR Series 12 passenger coaches. The first two are not on display (probably stored in the shed), while the Series 12 coaches are parked at the end of the tracks and cannot be approached on foot. On 11th April 2015, the Wakasa Railway conducted an 'SL running social experiment' to test the feasibility of operating service hauled by the C12 steam locomotive. As C12 No. 167 is no longer certified, the test run between Hattô (八東) and Wakasa used scarecrows instead of real passengers to simulate load weight. 　 Perhaps the cost of re-certifying C12 No. 167 is too high. Ten years on, the idea has yet to become reality. Instead, there are plan to operate retro tourist services using the still-certified DD16 diesel locomotive to haul the Series 12 coaches. The plan is expected to begin in April 2027, running only on weekends and public holidays, with four services per day (two return trips). 　 As a third-sector railway, achieving financial balance is never easy. Fare revenue alone is not enough. Local railways therefore have to be creative in developing tourism. Besides retro trains, cherry blossom viewing is one of Wakasa Station's main attractions. The bare trees lining the tracks in winter are actual cherry trees. In spring, vintage locomotives, retro trains and the station building framed by falling blossom create scenes that feel frozen in the Shôwa era – something few famous blossom spots can offer. 　 ▲ Wakasa Cafe 'retro' 　 ▲ Cafe seating converted from the waiting room 　 ▲ My iced cafe au lait and Todd's hot chocolate 　 After exploring the yard, we checked the timetable and saw that a train would arrive in under ten minutes. Since we could not ride the Wakasa Railway this time, we decided at least to photograph it. We bought drinks at Wakasa Cafe 'retro' and took a seat. 　 I ordered an iced cafe au lait, while Todd chose hot chocolate. Although the weather was slightly chilly, our thick winter layers made it feel a bit warm indoors. There is something oddly refreshing about drinking something cold on a crisp day – a bit like people who enjoy ice cream in winter. Todd, however, insisted on something hot. 'What exactly is the difference between cafe au lait and a caffe latte?' he asked. I am no coffee expert. I only know both are coffee with fresh milk – one French, one Italian – and the proportion of milk differs. 　 After ordering, the staff invited us to sit in the waiting room and said they would bring the drinks over. From behind the coffee bar curtain came an incredibly fragrant smell. They so sell food – but only burgers and cheesecake – and the aroma was definitely neither of those. We guessed the staff were preparing their own lunch. The waiting room still retained a strong Shôwa atmosphere. As our coffee arrived, so did the train. Once the passengers had disembarked, I stepped onto the platform to take same photos. 　 ▲ Tourist train 'Wakasa' (Wakasa Railway Series WT3000 diesel train) 　 ▲ Interior 　 I thought the train would remain at the platform until 13:24, the next departure time. But after I finished taking photos, just as Todd was about to step outside, the train suddenly moved off and parked on a siding instead. 　 Currently, the Wakasa Railway operates three Series WT3000 series diesel trains and one Series WT3300. The WT3000 trains were rebuilt from WT2500 trains (originally introduced in 1987) between 2002 and 2003, with new engines, transmissions and bogies, as well as refurbished interiors. During the refurbishment period, one WT3300 train was purchased to ensure sufficient rolling stock; it is 500 mm shorter that the WT2500. 　 The three WT3000 trains are painted in blue 'Shôwa', red 'Yazu', and green 'Wakasa' liveries, with interiors styled in retro Shôwa design. The single WT3300 train carries a full-body livery sponsored by Suzuki, themed after the GSX1300R Hayabusa motorcycle. Every August, Suzuki Hayabusa enthusiasts from across Japan gather at Hayabusa Station (隼駅) for the 'Hayabusa Station Festival'. 　 ▲ Former Tomieda Quarry (photographed by Todd) 　 ▲ Tomieda Quarry (photographed by Todd) 　 The one-way fare between Tottori station and Wakasa station is JP¥650, making a same-day return JP¥1,360. A slightly cheaper option is to buy a Wakasa Railway one-day pass for JP¥760, which allows unlimited travel between Kôge and Wakasa. For the JR section between Tottori and Kôge, you can buy a return ticket in advance at JP¥240 each way in Tottori station. That brings the total to JP¥1,240. 　 After enjoying our coffee in the Shôwa-style waiting room, it was time to leave Wakasa. On the way here, Todd had spotted a large cliff face but had not taken a photo. On the return drive, we finally captured it. At first, we thought it was Byôbu Rock marked on the tourist map, but after checking, we realised that was further away. This was actually the former Tomieda Quarry (富枝採石場). The stone here, known as Hirodameno Lava (広留野熔岩), was produced at around 16,000 tonnes per month until May 1978, mainly for use in concrete. 　 ▲ Tottori Ekimae shopping arcade 　 ▲ Tottori Takumi craft shop 　 ▲ Takumi Kappô restaurant 　 ▲ Entrance to the kappô restaurant 　 Back in Tottori, it was of course time for lunch, As mentioned earlier, we had planned to try local cuisine at Takumi Kappô (たくみ割烹店). The restaurant is located at the corner of the Tottori Ekimae shopping arcade (鳥取駅前商店街) and Nishikidôri (錦通り), about five minutes' walk from Tottori station. I had intended to park at the paid car park beside the Tottori Shinkin Bank (鳥取信用金庫) head office, but missed the turning and ended up in another car park. Parking cost JP¥100 per 30 minutes – quite reasonable for Tottori. 　 Takumi Kappô is part of the private Tottori Folk Crafts Museum, founded by the late Tottori-born doctor and folk art enthusiast YOSHIDA Shôya (吉田 璋也). The museum exhibits Japanese, East Asian and Western European folk art, with around 3,500 antiques and 1,500 contemporary pieces. Beside the kappô restaurant, there is also a craft shop, Tottori Takumi Kôgeiten. 'Kappô' (割烹) literally means cutting and cooking – preparing and cooking ingredients to order – and refers to a traditional high-end style of Japanese cuisine. 　 ▲ Restaurant interior 　 ▲ Mandarin juice 　 ▲ Takumi meal 'Etsu' – Three small starters: monkfish liver, dressed fried tofu with dried shredded mooli radish (daikon), and lemon-pickled lotus root 　 ▲ Takumi meal 'Etsu' – sashimi 　 ▲ Takumi meal 'Etsu' – simmered flatfish in soy-based sauce 　 ▲ Tottori wagyû beef butter-grilled 　 ▲ Takumi meal 'Etsu' – soup, and notice the large pot of rice behind! 　 ▲ Side dishes: pickled mooli radish (daikon) and simmered kombu 　 ▲ Seasonal fruit (dessert): Tottori pear 　 The restaurant was also designed by YOSHIDA Shôya and is filled with a strong folk-craft atmosphere. Although kappô is regarded as high-end cuisine in Japan, the lunch prices were not high at all. We order two meals to share. One was the Tottori wagyû beef butter-grilled meal (JP¥2,700), and the other was the very generous Takumi meal 'Etsu' (JP¥3,000), which included three small starters, sashimi, simmered whole fish and soup. Both sets came with a large portion of rice, side dishes and dessert (a choice of fruit or yoghurt). 　 The restaurant closes for an afternoon break at 14:00. We arrived at 13:10 – and by the time we finished, we were the last two customers.

Article Menu LAST: [Japan tour 2026] Heading to Tottori: the limited express train Super Hakuto, Hotel Monarque Tottori & Gottsuo Ramen HERE: [Japan tour 2026] Wakasa Station ~ a real-life 'railway museum'; Takumi Kappô ~ famous local dishes in Tottori NEXT: [Japan tour 2026] Hakuto Jinja ~ shrine for the white rabbit

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