[Japan tour 2026] Iwashimizu Hachimangû (shrine) ~ the worship for samurai regime

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Date: 15th January 2026 (Wednesday)

After checking out of the hotel and leaving our luggage there, we set off on today's itinerary. Our first destination was Iwashimizu Hachimangû (石清水八幡宮), located in the outskirts of Kyoto. The most straightforward way to get there is to take the Keihan Main Line (京阪本線) from either Yodoyabashi (淀屋橋) station or Kitahama (北浜) station. We chose Yodoyabashi, as it is the terminus and gives a better chance of getting seats. We walked along Tosaboridori (土佐堀通り), where the hotel is located, towards Yodoyabashi station. Along the way, I noticed that roadside parking space in Osaka operate in the same 'Pay & Display' system as in the UK – you buy a ticket from the machine first, then display it under the windscreen. 　 ▲ Street scene in Kitahama (Tosaboridori) 　 ▲ Sendannoki Bridge; the building on the other side is Osaka City Hall, Nakanoshima Library, and Osaka City Central Public Hall 　 ▲ Sankyubashisuji (三休橋筋) 　 ▲ Roadside parking in Osaka also uses 'Pay & Display' 　 'Why are we going to Kyoto?' This was the question Todd asked when he saw the itinerary. Why? Because of you, of course! Last year, Todd insisted on visiting Tsurugaoka Hachimangû (鶴岡八幡宮), and this year he again specifically wanted to pay respects to Hachiman Ôkami (八幡大神). I looked up Hachiman's shrines in Tottori and Shimane Prefectures, but they were all small in scale and rather remote. Since we were making a special trip to worship Hachiman anyway, and since we were already in the Kansai region, why not visit Iwashimizu Hachimangû, one of Japan's Three Great Hachiman's Shrines? 　 As limited express trains do not stop at Iwashimizu Hachimangû station, route search platforms such as 'NAVITIME' or 'Ekitan' all recommend taking a limited express (特急) to Hirakatashi (枚方市) station and then changing to a sub-express (準急), which saves about ten minutes. However, seeing the huge crowds squeezing onto the limited express at Yodoyabashi station, we decided instead to hop onto a sub-express on the next platform. It was far more relaxed and comfortable, and only took about ten minutes longer anyways. 　 ▲ Keihan Main Line sub-express train (Keihan fleet Series 1000) 　 ▲ Iwashimizu Hachimangû station (Keihan Main Line) 　 ▲ Cable Hachimangû Guchi station 　 ▲ Station sign and a brief history of the cable tramway below it 　 Although the station is called 'Iwashimizu Hachimangû Station', it is not actually at the shrine itself. You still need to change to the cable tram – the Iwashimizu Hachimangû Sandô Cable (石清水八幡宮参道ケーブル) – to reach the shrine precincts. Of course, to show proper devotion, you can also choose to climb the steps on foot. So should Todd walk up the steps while I take the tram and wait for him at the top? The tram is also operated by Keihan Railway and is classed as a funicular railway. Internally, it is known as the Keihan Cable Line, but its ticketing system is seperate from the Keihan Main Line, so you need to exit and re-enter through the ticket gates when transferring. 　 The tram opened in 1926 and was originally called the Otokoyama Cableway (男山索道). It was later renamed Otokoyama Railway and Otokoyama Cable, before being given its current name in 2019. Normally, services run at 15 and 45 minutes past the hour in both directions, with additional services at the hour and half past when needed. The two trams are named 'Akane' (あかね, literally 'the Red'), symbolising the sun, and 'Kogane' (こがね, literally 'the Gold'), symbolising the moon. Not only are exteriors red and gold, but even the seats inside the tram are arranged with one side red and the other gold. 　 ▲ Tram (Kogana) 　 ▲ View from the tram 　 ▲ Inside the tram 　 ▲ Cabele Hachimangû Sanjô station 　 Passengers using IC cards (such as Suica or ICOCA) need to tap in and out at both the upper and lower stations (there are no gates at the top, only card readers). Those paying with cash or QR codes only need to pay or scan at the lower station for both directions. The tram travels very slowly, at just 8 km/h, allowing passengers to enjoy the scenery along the way. The ride takes only about three minutes, and after getting off, it is around a ten-minute walk to the shrine following the signs, with some uphill and downhill sections along the way. 　 Iwashimizu Hachimangû is not only counted among Japan's Three Great Hachiman's Shrines alongside Usa Jingû (宇佐神宮) and Hakozakigû (筥崎宮, or Tsurugaoka Hachimangû), but is also regarded as the second ancestral shrine of the Imperial Family after Ise Jingû (伊勢神宮). Every New Year, the Emperor performs remote worship towards both shrines. In addition, Iwashimizu Hachimangû is the clan shrine of the Minamoto family (源氏), and Tsurugaoka Hachimangû in Kamakura was established by transferring a divided spirit from Iwashimizu Hachimangû. It is one of the few shrines revered by both the Imperial household and the shogunal families. 　 ▲ About a ten-minute walk following the signposts 　 ▲ Path leading to the shrine 　 ▲ Sanjo Jinja 　 Walking along the path, the first building we encountered was a subsidiary shrine – Sanjo Jinja, (三女神社), which enshrines the three Munakata goddesses. These goddesses are closely linked to the Hachiman faith (for the objects of worship in Hachiman belief, please refer back to last year's aticle on Tsurugaoka Hachimangû,  as I will not explain it in detail here). The three goddesses protect waterways, transport, and military routes. Mount Otokoyama, where Iwashimizu Hachimangû stands, overlooks the strategic point where the Rivers Uji (宇治), Katsura (桂), and Kizu (木津) merge to form the River Yodo (淀川). Sanjo Jinja was therefore built to guard this crucial waterway leading to Kyoto. 　 Near Sanjo Jinja stands an Thomas A. Edison Monument (エジソン記念碑, not photographed), commemorating the man often described in textbooks as the 'inventor of the light bulb' (though in reality, he was not the original inventor). He believed that high-quality bamboo could be used as a durable filament, and experiments showed that it could burn for over 1,000 hours (and please, media outlets, do not blame bamboo scaffolding for the Wang Fuk Court fire in Hong Kong). It is said that Edison selected bamboo from the groves near Iwashimizu Hachimangû, and some of the shrine's ema even feature his portrait. In Japan, there is even a sense of pride that Japanese bamboo helped light up the world. 　 ▲ Sandô (shrine approach/worship pathway) and the Third Torii gate 　 ▲ Stone lanterns lining both sides of the sandô 　 The Third Torii gate was first built during the Muromachi period (around 1400), shortly after the end of the Nanbokuchô period. The original torii was wooden, painted vermilion and decorated with gold fittings. It was rebuilt in stone in 1645 during the Edo period. After suffering damage from various disasters over the years, the current torii was reconstructed in 1962. The Minamisômon (南総門) is the main gate leading from the sandô into the inner precinct and was most recently restored in March 2024. Although it serves as the main gate to the inner area, it does not face the Main Complex directly, but is slightly angled to the east, so that worshippers do not turn their backs directly on Hachiman Ôkami when leavin. 　 There were not many visitors to the shrine on the day we visited, and most worshippers were elderly. Many of them carried an arrow, which is Iwashimizu Hachimangû's talisman for warding off misfortune – the Hachiman Scared Arrow (八幡御神矢). Normally, talismans and charms from shrine or temples are considered valid for one year and should be returned the following year to be ritually burned, before purchasing new ones for the coming year. However, I perosnally treat charms as souvenirs. Some were even bought by friends from shrines that are difficult or rarely visited, and I have never returned them to the shrines for disposal. 　 ▲ In front of the Minamisômon 　 ▲ Chôzuya 　 ▲ Minamisômon 　 ▲ Osamejo (納め所, return area for old charms) 　 After passing through the Minamisômon, we entered the inner area of the shrine. The Kagura Hall (神楽殿) is on the left, and the amulet office is on the right. Apart from serving as the stage where shrine maidens perform kagura dances for the deities, the Kagura Hall is also used on designated days during the New Year period, including today, for purification kagura rituals performed on newly purchased sacred arrows. Arrows purchased on other days have already undergone the ritual. As there were clear no-photography signs posted on the pillars at the front of the Kagura Hall, I did not take any photos of the kagura dance. 　 The architectural style of the Main Complex at Iwashimizu Hachimangû is known as Hachimanzukuri (八幡造り). This style is mainly used for large shrines dedicated to Hachiman, and Usa Jingû, another of the Three Great Hamchiman's Shrine, also follows this layout. A Hachimanzukuri Main Complex is not a single building, but a collective term for multiple structures within the surrounding corridors. The Main Complex at Iwashimizu Hachimangû contains ten National Treasure buildings, including the Main Sanctuary (本殿, Inner Hall and Outer Hall), the Main Hall of the subsidiary Takeuchisha (摂社武內社本殿), the Sacred Fence (瑞籬), the Offering Hall & Dance Hall (拝殿及び舞殿), the Tower Gate (楼門), the East Gate (東門), the West Gate (西門), and the Corridors (in three sections). In addition, three ridge plaques inside the Main Complex are also designated as National Treasure. 　 ▲ Kagura Hall 　 ▲ Amulet office 　 General visitors are not allowed to enter the corridors and may only perform a simple prayer in front of the tower gate (two bows, two claps, and one bow). The design deliberately keeps a distance between Hachiman Ôkami and the human world, emphasising the deity's sacredness. Only worshippers participating in purifcation or prayer rituals may enter the Main Complex area, and photography is likely prohibited, which is why photos of the interior are extremely rare online apart from those on the official website. 　 In addition to National Treasure buildings of the Main Complex, several subsidiary and auxiliary shrines to the north of the Main Complex are also designated as National Important Cultural Properties. 　 It is said that in 859 AD, Gyôkyô (行教), a monk from Nanto Daianji (南都大安寺), received a divine message at Usa Jingû instructing that the deity should be transferred to the peak of Mount Otokoyama before Kyoto to protect the nation. The following year, Emperor Seiwa (清和天皇) ordered the construction of shrine buildings within the grounds of Iwashimizudera, thus establishing Iwashimizu Hachimangû. The name 'Iwashimizu' (literally clear water from rock) comes from the spring water that gushes out from the middle of Mount Otokoyama. 　 ▲ Tower Gate of the Main Complex (National Treasure) 　 ▲ Corridor of the Main Complex (National Treasure) 　 ▲ East Gate of the Main Complex (National Treasure) 　 ▲ Eastern earthen wall (Nobunaga Wall) and stone lanterns 　 There are around 450 stone lanterns within the grounds of Iwashimizu Hachimangû, all in different styles. Traditionally, worshippers dedicate stone lanterns to shrines or temples to pray for blessing or to give thanks for wishes granted. The lanterns are engraved with the date of dedication, and sometimes with the donor's name, occupation, or even the wish itself. The stone lanterns at Iwashimizu Hachimangû date from as early as the late 13th century to the early 20th century. From the late 19th century onwards, many lanterns were gradually relocated from various parts of Otokoyama and concentrated along the sandô. 　 The oldest stone lantern at Iwashimizu Hachimangû is the 'Einin Stone Lantern' (永仁石燈籠), which has been designated a National Important Cultural Property. The inscription on the lantern reads 'Einin 3rd years, year of the Goat, third month', indicating that it was dedicated in 1295 during the Einin era. The lantern is now placed in the Shoin Stone Garden (書院石庭) next to the shrine office. The Shoin Stone Garden is a Japanese dry landscape garden created in 1952 by the renowned garden designer SHIGEMORI Mirei (重森 三玲). The white gravel represents the sea, while the Einin Stone Lantern and the groups of rocks in the garden symbolise islands. 　 ▲ Higashisômon (東総門, National Important Cultural Property) 　 ▲ Mizuwakamiyasha (水若宮社, National Important Cultural Property) 　 ▲ Wakamiyadensha (若宮殿社, National Cultural Property) 　 ▲ Kimonfûji (鬼門封じ, demon gate sealing) 　 The existing Main Complex was rebuilt by TOKUGAWA Iemitsu (徳川 家光), the third shogun of the Edo shogunate. It is the oldest and largest surviving example of a Hachimanzukuri shrine complex. Throughout its history, Iwashimizu Hachimangû received support from any powerful samurais and feudal lords, including the three great unifiers of the Sengoku period: ODA Nobunaga (織田 信長), TOYOTOMI Hideyoshi (豊臣 秀吉), and TOKUGAWA Ieyasu (徳川 家康). Nobunaga donated the golden rain gutters of the Main Complex and the surrounding earthen walls; Hideyoshi contributed large sums of money; and after establishing the shogunate, Ieyasu exempted the shrine from town taxex. 　 In Japanese belief, the northeast is considered the omotekimon (表鬼門, front demon gate), where demons enter, while the southwest is the urakimon (裏鬼門, rear demon gate), where they exit. Taking the Imperial Palace of Heiankyô (平安京) as the centre, Mount Hiei (比叡山) to the northeast is the omotekimon, while Mount Otokoyama to the southwest is the urakimon. As such, Hieizan Enryakuji (比叡山 延暦寺) and Iwashimizu Hachimangû are regarded as two important guardian worship sites protecting Kyoto. In traditional Japanese architecture, the northeast corner is often avoided, for example by cutting it at an angle or creating a recessed corner. As a shrine for sealing demons, Iwashimizu Hachimangû follows the same principle. The stone base of the Main Complex is also cut at an angle at the northeast corner, a feature known as Kimonfûji (鬼門封じ). 　 ▲ Wakamiyasha (若宮社, National Important Cultural Property) 　 ▲ North side of the Main Complex 　 ▲ Kitasômon (北総門, National Important Cultural Property) 　 ▲ Sumiyoshisha (住吉社, National Important Cultural Property) 　 ▲ Azekura (校倉, raised-floor storehouse) 　 ▲ Western earthen wall 　 ▲ Sacred Camphor tree (御神木「楠」) 　 Surrounding the Main Complex is an Earthen Wall (築地塀). As it was donated by ODA Nobunaga in 1580, it is commonly called the 'Nobunaga Wall' (信長塀). The wall is built by layering roof tiles and earth alternately, making it thicker and more robust than ordinary walls, with fire-resistant and earthquake-resistant properties. During the turbulent Sengoku period, fires were often the greatest threat to shrines and temples. Nobunaga donated this wall to ensure that Hachiman Ôkami, the god for warriors, would not be consumed by fire during times of conflict. Like the stone base of the Main Complex, the northeast corner of the Nobunaga Wall is also cut at an angle to seal the demon gate. 　 KUSUNOKI Masashige (楠木正成, reverently known as Dainankô, 大楠公), the loyal retainer of Emperor Go-Daigo (後醍醐天皇), is said to have prayed for victory at Iwashimizu Hachimangû and personally planted two comphor trees. One stands behind the Nobunaga Wall next to the Kagura Hall and is known as the Sacred Camphor Tree, while the other is located near the Thomas A. Edison Monumnet. It is said that both trees were planted in 1334, making them around 700 years old, and they have been designated Prefectural Natural Monuments of Kyoto. Camphor trees emit a distinctive fragrance and are the source of camphor. They have insect-repellent properties and medicinal uses, and have long been widely used for Buddhist statues, shrine and temple buildings, and musical instruments. 　 ▲ Bamboo grove 　 ▲ Urasandô (裏参道, rear approach path) 　 ▲ Torii gate on the Urasandô 　 ▲ Otokoyama Observation Deck 　 ▲ Kyoto City, with Mt Hiei visible in the distance 　 ▲ Nagaokakyô City (長岡京市) and Mukô City (向日市), with Arashiyama in the distance 　 In fact, Iwashimizu Hachimangû consists not only the upper area on the mountain, but also a lower area at the foot of the mountain. Walking from the upper area to the lower area along the urasandô (裏参道) takes about 20 minutes. However, we did not plan to visit the lower area and instead took a side path off the urasandô towards the Otokoyama Observation Deck (男山展望台), which takes about ten minutes to reach. Earlier, when taking about Sanjo Jinja, I mentioned that Otokoyama overlooks the confluence of the three rivers. The observation deck is the perfect place to see this view. 　 The Otokoyama Observation Deck offers different scenery in each season. In spring, the mountain is covered in cherry blossoms; in summer, it is lush and green; in autumn, it is all about autumn leaves; and in winter, with the leaves fallen, the views are at their most expansive. Some people even come here specifically at night to enjoy the night view, with the illuminated city of Kyoto visible in the distance. 　 ▲ Tram (Akane) 　 ▲ Sub-express train approaching the opposite platform (Keihan fleet Series 9000) 　 ▲ Passing through limited express train (Keihan fleet Series 3000) 　 ▲ Our train (Keihan fleet Series 7000) 　 ▲ Osaka Metro Midosuji Line train (Kitakyû fleet Series 9000) 　 After enjoying the view from the observation deck, we walked back to the cable tram station to head down the mountain. This time, we rode the other tram – Akane. Once back at the bottom, the first priority was finding a toilet. There happened to be one inside Iwashimizu Hachimangû Station, so we used it even though there was a train back to Osaka waiting at the platform. I had not been to the toilet at all since leaving the hotel! Missing one train also had its benefits, as it gave me more time to photograph passing trains. I had originally thought about visiting Nishiki Market (錦市場) and having lunch there, but later, because Todd had miscounted the number of tattoo covers he bought last night, we decided to head back to Namba instead. 　 After arriving in Namba, we quickly found a ramen restaurant for lunch – Zundôya Namab Ebisubashi brench (ずんどう屋 難波えびす橋店), specialising in rich tonkotsu ramen from Himeji. The menu was extremely simple, with only one ramen and fried rice set. The only choice was the portion size of the noodles. Perhaps it is precisely this simplicity that suits someone like me who struggles to make decisions. The ramen was good, though Todd felt the fried rice was slightly burnt, while I though it had a nice smoky flavour. Everyone's standards really are different. After the meal, Todd quickly headed to Donki to buy tattoo covers, then we returned to the hotel to collect our luggage before going to Umeda to catch the train to Tottori. 　 ▲ Takana (pickled vegetable) provided at the ramen restaurant 　 ▲ Tonkotsu ramen 　 ▲ Fried rice 　 ▲ Osaka Metro Midosuji Line train (Osaka Municipal Subway fleet Series 30000) 　 Finally, I want to talk about one thing – who actually invented the light bulb? 　 What we learn from textbooks is often just enough to pass exams, but not enough to understand the truth. Textbooks often simply say that Thomas Edison invented the light bulb, but in reality, he was only one of the developers and was the one who ultimately registered the patent for the incandescent lamp. The German-American Henry Goedel had already created a light bulb in 1854 using the same techniques and materials as Edison, but he did not register a patent. Edison succeeded in 1879, but the key difference was that he registered his invention. Goebel was later even sued by Edison's company, General Electric. 　 In addition, the British inventor Joseph Swan had already produced a light bulb using a carbon filament in a partial vacuum in 1860. However, due to the limitations of vacuum technology at the time, its lifespan was extremely short. In 1878, Swan obtained a patent for the incandescent lamp one year earlier than Edison, though it was valid only in Britain. I'm not try to deny Edison's contribution to the development of the light bulb, but rather to point out that we cannot always fully trust everything written in textbooks.

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